The End of History

A note from Matt Warshaw. This is the last chapter from the book version of History of Surfing, which was published in 2010. More of an epilogue, really, than a final chapter. It is both a summary of both the book itself, and (less obvious) how I felt about surfing, and the general state of surfing, at that moment in time. I still agree with most of what you see below. But in this final section (unlike the previous section, Surf in a Box) I'm choosing to not deal with or try and integrate the...

Surfing is attached to the hem of a natural force so vast it can drain the power from a howling storm, refine it, and deliver it 10 days and 3,ooo miles later in a smooth, elegant processional. This ocean setting—in the final tally, it's all that really counts.