The End of History

Surfing is attached to the hem of a natural force so vast it can drain the power from a howling storm, refine it, and deliver it 10 days and 3,ooo miles later in a smooth, elegant processional. This ocean setting—in the final tally, it's all that really counts.

A note from Matt Warshaw. This is the last chapter from the book version of History of Surfing, which was published in 2010. More of an epilogue, really, than a final chapter. It is both a summary of both the book itself, and (less obviously) how I felt about surfing, and the general state of surfing, at that moment in time. I'm writing this note in 2019, and still agree with most of what you see ...

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