By the early 1970s, California surfing had taken a sharp and dramatic tumble in the eyes of wave-riders everywhere—including Californians themselves, many of whom now regarded their own state with a disapproval that ranged from mild to masochistic. In part, it was leftover embarrassment over the war of words following Nat Young’s win in the 1966 World Championships, compounded by the state’s late arrival to the shortboard revolution. Southern California surf breaks had also endured a string o...
Chapter 5:
Barefoot Revolution
- Revolution is not a Dinner Party /
- The Tao of George /
- Getting Slippery with Bob McTavish /
- Bismarck with a Tan /
- Plastic Machine /
- Enlightenment at Honolua Bay /
- Panic on the Showroom Floor /
- Style Takes a Dive /
- Everybody Must Get Stoned /
- Surfer Goes Electrical Bananas /
- No Contest /
- There Will be Slaps /
- Kook Straps, Cadillacs, and Sex Wax /
- Blame it on the Boogie /
- Country Soul /
- Higher and Brighter with Alby Falzon /
- Fresh Blood on the Newsstand /
- Long Road to Bells Beach /
- Speed Freaks /
- Gods of Thunder /
- The Rubberman Cometh /
- The Impossible Wave /
- Into the Vortex /
- Gerry Lopez, Pipeline Firewalker /
