Velzy's Pig

Dale Velzy, mid-1950s
Dale Velzy (right), mid-'40s
Velzy surf shop, Manhattan Beach, 1950
Velzy pig, mid-1950s
Velzy (front), Manhattan Pier, 1951

The Malibu of popular legend was mostly created by four people: Dale Velzy, Dewey Weber, Terry Tracy, and Miki Dora. Three were from broken families. Tracy and Weber attended junior college, but barely; they were beach-educated. All four were entertainers. All four, to varying degrees, were hustlers. They commuted to Malibu (with just one or two exceptions, none of the break’s best-known riders were actually Malibu residents), and by 1953 they’d become First Point regulars, just as Quigg and ...

Velzy and British actor and sophisticate David Niven surfed together often. “He was always using the word ‘splendid,’” Velzy later recalled. “He’d say to me, ‘Oh that was a splendid wave you just had!’ And I’d say, ‘Niven, don’t say splendid, say bitchin’—that was a bitchin’ wave!”