Chapter 3:

Malibu Swing

Velzy's Pig

The Malibu of popular legend was mostly created by four people: Dale Velzy, Dewey Weber, Terry Tracy, and Miki Dora. Three were from broken families. Tracy and Weber attended junior college, but barely; they were beach-educated. All four were entertainers. All four, to varying degrees, were hustlers. They commuted to Malibu (with just one or two exceptions, none of the break’s best-known riders were actually Malibu residents), and by 1953 they’d become First Point regulars, just as Quigg and ...

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Velzy and British actor and sophisticate David Niven surfed together often. “He was always using the word ‘splendid,’” Velzy later recalled. “He’d say to me, ‘Oh that was a splendid wave you just had!’ And I’d say, ‘Niven, don’t say splendid, say bitchin’—that was a bitchin’ wave!”

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