Excerpted from "Some Chilling Facts About a Woman Surfing Champion," by John Fowler, which ran in the November 1964 issue of SURFER.

How old were you when you started to surf?

I guess I was 10 or 11 years old. I used to stand up on surf mats and ride them to shore. Then when I was 12 I got my first board. It was an old waterlogged thing that could hardly float, but I was sure proud of it.

Ever since I can remember. Although our family did live in Hawaii for eight months and I attended Farrington High School. While living there I entered the surfing contest at Makaha and was lucky enough to place third.

How did you feel when you won the Makaha Championships for the first time?

Pretty excited! I couldn’t believe it at first, then when it finally dawned on me, I started to cry. Can you imagine doing a dumb thing like that?

What about winning it for the second time?

I cried again. I think I was more proud of myself this time because, honestly, I thought some of the other girls were doing much better than I was.

Well, Joey Hamasaki was ripping up the place with her noserides, bottom turns, rail grabs, and kick-outs. I think she is as good or better than most boy surfers. Then there was Linda Benson doing spinners, and Marge Calhoun, who is fantastically smooth.

How many girls were there in the contest?

I don’t get nervous in competition and I strive for perfection. I am a moody surfer, though. When I am happy I surf well and when I’m unhappy, not too well.

The surf wasn’t bad. I’d say the waves were between 6 and 8 feet, well-shaped, but inconsistent. The day was bright and sunny. They have a course laid out with three marker buoys and a 45-minute time limit for each heat. If you ride between the buoys without falling, you make a possible score of 30. During that time you perform to the very best of your ability. If you do a spinner, nose ride, bottom turn, or rail grab in good form, it adds to your score.

Why do you like to compete in a man’s sport?

If girls like athletics like I do, I see no reason why they should have to just sit on the beach and look pretty. Besides, who said it was just a man’s sport? Don’t take me wrong, I like to look pretty like the next girl, but I don’t like all of the restrictions that men seem to think are necessary for women.

Oh boy, why don’t you ask me what my weak points are?

Well, let’s see. I guess you might say I am a strong paddler. I like to take off when the wave is critical. I turn pretty well, and I am not afraid of the big surf. Enough?

I can’t do spinners and this makes me mad. I use poor judgment sometimes.

What is the biggest wave you have ever ridden?

At Windansea in 1962. I rode one that was 12 feet and I was thoroughly, completely, physically, and mentally STOKED! It was one of the biggest thrills in my life. John Peck saw me ride it and every time he sees me he always says, “Remember the time, a couple of years ago at Windansea, when you rode that 12-footer? What a beautiful ride that was.”

Do you have a special place you like to surf?

Ala Moana and Makaha, in Hawaii. Also Rincon, Cotton’s Point, Trestle, Windansea, and Riviera on a hot, glassy day. Also a secret place—Little Rincon.

Would you give our girl readers a few tips on surfing?

You mean the girls that really surf or the girls that just carry their boards around to impress the boys?

If a girl really wants to be a surfer she should carry and take care of her own board. Don’t flatter yourselves into thinking boys would rather surf with you. They need more competition and most girls are just not that good. I don’t mean to say that boys do not like to surf with girls, but just don’t crowd them. If you are learning to surf, ask a boy surfer to teach you the fundamentals. The paddling positions, standing, turning, etc. I am sure he will be only too glad to help you. If you are an experienced surfer, then all I can say is practice, practice, and more practice. I always try to surf with boys who are better than I am.

I would like to go to the Peruvian International Surfing Meet and the Australia Championships. I would like to see surfing become worldwide so I could become a goodwill ambassador from the United States.

[Note: in 1965, Nelson won Makaha for the third and final time, and also placed runner-up in the World Championships, held in Peru.]

Nancy Nelson

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