"The SURFER Interview with Tom Curren," by Chris Mauro, ran in the April 2004 issue, when Curren was 39. This version has been shortened and slightly edited

How long has your surfing and music relationship existed?

When I was about 13-years-old I was super into drumming. We had the last house between the freeway and the railroad tracks and my parents would still get complaints from the neighbors about the noise. We were a nightmare to be around.

So with all the music stuff you have going on these days [Curren had just finished recording an album of original songs], where does surfing fit in?

It’s really hard to be at a satisfactory level at both simultaneously. It’s not impossible, but it’s hard. Right now, this is the peak wave season here in Santa Barbara, and at the moment I’m working on a new board model with Al Merrick, so I’d say in terms of surfing I’m on more of an upswing. Surfing is still my main activity, more than music.

When a lot of surfers think of Tom Curren they automatically think of Occy [Mark Occhilupo] too, because of the rivalry you two had. Was that something you were able to enjoy and thrive off when it was happening?

In retrospect, yes. I mean, I consider him a really good friend now and he’s by far one of the funniest people I know, but I didn’t enjoy the fact that he was going faster and more ballistic than anyone back then, including me. So that part bothered me. But it really pushed me too. I was obsessed with Occy at a certain point. I was looking at his fin templates, trying to get Al to make boards that were really flat like his. I was caught up in his whole thing.

Yeah, he beat me several times in a row before I ever got him, and that was a huge bummer at the time. It was really stressing me out.

But you’ve always concealed your feelings well, haven’t you?

Yeah, but there was a period there around 1984 when as hard as I was trying I couldn’t get over a certain plateau, and my surfing sort of deteriorated at one point there, where I was over gyrating or throwing pizzas or whatever you want to call it (laughs). That just made things worse, and Occy was already on a different level at that point. In the end, that period was all part of the big process, and I moved on, but yeah—it really bothered me.

Of course, you can't talk about the Curren/Occy rivalry without mentioning the all-time heat at Bells in ‘86 when you clinched your first world title.

Yeah, I remember the waves being really good, the tide was right, the swell was up and I had Black Beauty with me—which was lucky because I almost left it in Sydney and someone said, “What are you thinking, you’ve got to bring it.”

What was it like out there in the water with him that afternoon?

With everything involved, the title and the rivalry, it was a full-contact, blow for blow kind of match up. It almost felt like a boxing match. I saw him get a few good ones and I made a conscious effort to push a little harder, so it took more than just being in tune with the ocean.

When Occy made his big comeback a few years ago a lot of us were wondering, hoping, wishing that you’d do the same. And the big question is still out there, “Where was Tom Curren that whole time?”

Some of that was me focusing more attention on music and traveling, but, to be honest, there were a few years there where I really wasn’t doing much of anything. I was pretty lost I guess. There are pretty big gaps in there where whatever I was doing it was not very productive.

You mentioned earlier that your new album is somber, and now you mention this period of being lost. Sounds like maybe you were dealing with a few inner demons.

Yeah, absolutely. That’s basically it in a nutshell.

Was there a period where you were depressed?

Yeah, I think so. I think that’s definitely true, as crazy as it sounds.

Yeah but, you know, a lot of it is more . . . I don’t know if it’s that interesting.

During your last trip to Indonesia, there was some concern among some of the people you were traveling with that you were dealing with a serious drinking problem.

Well, to that I can say yes. I guess some people go on those cures with the Indians in the mountains and try to get away from this and that, to deal with it. But for me, it’s just, y’know, Jesus is there and he’s free. He's all I need. I know I’m not the only one to struggle with alcohol. But I’m doing really well at the moment.

How would you say your approach to dealing with it differs from other approaches?

The pastor at the drug and alcohol service that they have down here [Santa Barbara] says, “This isn’t the twelve-step program it's a one-step program.”

Just dying to yourself, and, you know, cutting off the flesh and basically putting Christ first. His teachings are hard, they get you right where it hurts. Now, as hardcore as that sounds, people will either dig that or they don’t, they’ll relate to it or they don’t, that’s not really my mission. I’m not bashing people over the head with it.

You’re just saying this is what’s working for you?

Yeah, He’s lifting me up and breaking down strongholds and putting light on things the way only God can.

Al Merrick seems to have been a father figure to you in the past and shares your religious beliefs. Is working with him again bringing some added comfort these days?

Yeah, Al is a very godly man, and a good friend—a real friend. So aside from all the technical and business things we’ve always worked on together, both in the past and now, he’s always been a role model.

A lot of the guys on tour today have handlers taking care of most of their incidentals and itineraries, watching over them to keep them out of trouble, which is something your generation couldn’t afford. Did you pay a price for that?

Yeah, you’re so isolated when you’re out there, especially as a young kid being sent out into the world for the first time. I did things I wasn’t supposed to. I knew I had the support at home but there were times when I neglected the lines of communication. I didn’t keep them open, and that was a problem because I did end up making mistakes. But even though I didn’t have somebody in charge of my schedule or whatever, I did have very good friends who helped me on an unofficial level. One of the reasons I did so well was because I had good advice and good friends that weren’t just going along with everything I wanted to do. They’d tell me when something wasn’t cool.

Guys like you and Tom Carroll and Occy are in many ways playing more of a wise elder role in surfing these days. Is that something you’re comfortable with?

I think so, but I’d like to be more involved with some type of coaching role. That’s pretty interesting for me right now.

You must get a bit of that with your kids.

Yeah, I can tell my little guys have got that instinct with the ocean already. My older kids in France are taking to surfing with a lot of gusto, and my younger kids skate, surf, they do their artwork and play their music and their studies. [Note: Curren has a daughter and son with his first wife, Marie, and two sons with his second wife, Maki.] I’m just trying to give them an opportunity to do anything. I even turn them loose on the electric guitar and drums.

Oh yeah, we're probably the worst neighbors, because no matter what’s going on it’s going to be loud.

That we all need structure and discipline, and everyone has their own unique personality. But kids are also very smart. They see everything. They’re watching your every move even if you don’t think so, and that’s pretty heavy.

So when you look back at your career and the journey surfing has taken you on, what is it that you’ve accomplished that you’re most proud of?

This will sound strange, but one of the things that I’m really proud of is my dad being the guy he is. When I was little he made my boards and my wetsuits. He was buying the rubber, cutting the patterns, the whole deal. And there were a few days where we went out in some real overhead surf, and he was never drilling me like, “Do this. Do that.” He was just there. I wasn't even aware of the fact that he had one eye on me. But I think my upbringing was pretty unique.

Yeah, and now my brother Joe is one of the best surfers that I know. I think he’s extremely underrated—a solid surfer and a solid guy. I think that too comes back to my dad, too. So that’s something I’m proud of. Another thing I’m proud of is the work Al and I did together when he came into the picture. We made some great boards that were really pivotal for me early on.

Are you referring to your first thrusters?

Well, that for sure, but actually the twin fins brought me my first big breakthrough. I remember the first time I tried one I was flying along with Al right there, sitting on the shoulder, seeing what was going to happen. On one wave I kicked out next to him and he told me, “You know, you could have made that section.” And on the very next wave I realized that he was right. There was just so much more speed; people underestimate the impact twin-fins had on performance.

Much was made of the influence Rabbit had on you, but in the footage of you surfing Rincon at 15 or 16-years-old it’s pretty obvious Mark Richards played a part too.

Oh yeah, it was all about MR back then. I met him in South Africa in 1981 and I noticed every little thing about him and his boards. He had two twin fins on that trip, and he kept them immaculate. If he got a ding he’d repair them perfectly and add a gloss coat. He never had a scratch on them. He made his own wax too.

Yeah, he had his own wax. So when I went on tour years later I’d bring my own repair kit with gloss and everything, I tried to make my own wax, but that didn’t go over as well (laughs).

I remember you, years later, just mutilating your equipment—reshaping squash tails into swallows with a nail file the day before a heat.

Yeah (laughs), that was during my more nihilistic phase.

Going back to those early days with Al, it must have been fun to be at the forefront of all those design changes.

Yeah, it was a blast. You could feel the change in the air.

When you look at those who’ve followed, like Kelly and Andy, what is it about their surfing you most admire?

Everything. It’s amazing what these guys are doing. I was in the shop the other day watching this video of Kelly and, y'know, as best as I could do on my best day, he’s still going to blow me out of the water. It’s pretty cool. It’s exactly how you'd imagine you’d want to surf.

Are there areas where you think we're still lagging, in performance or equipment?

We’ve been saying it for 10 or 15 years now, but I think materials will change soon, and boards will be faster than they are now. More flow and speed. The design Al and I are working on is epoxy, with a few twists. People are ready and open to change.

Do you think pro surfing in the future can get to another level, or is this the next level?

I think the team format, like they had in the X-Games, is a lot more exciting. Obviously, surfing is an individual deal but there are a lot of problems that still need to be fixed in terms of competition: the commentators are commentating for the people in the water, not the crowd. There are giant gaps in the action, which is boring, and you have these venues where it’s man-on-man, so there’s a bunch of unridden waves running through. Those all have to be remedied if competitive surfing is to reach a new level.

What’s your secret to staying motivated to surf now?

One thing is, regardless of where you are with your surfing, is to have a board you’re stoked on. The other thing after that is getting good surf, which is rewarding enough sometimes, but you also have to have good pals around. These days I’m less motivated to go and do these big surf trips because—I don't know, the last couple of have just been kinda weird.

Well, the places are beautiful, but—this is really horrible to say—I was getting bored. I felt bad about it too. It threw me for a loop.

So the novelty of surfing fun three-foot waves at home is just as good for you?

Yeah, the neat thing about Santa Barbara is when it is good it's really good. I still love Rincon and the crew out there.

You ran with a pretty fun crew growing up in Santa Barbara.

Yeah, Sam and Matt George were a huge part of that era and the fun we had. They were the storytellers. We lived for their tales. They’d come back from a place like Australia and paint this vivid picture for us of the waves, the girls, everything, all the way down to the milkshakes. They drove me around a lot when I was 14 or 15. None of us had any money for real food so we lived off candy, and put all the rest into gasoline. I remember Sam and Matt came up with rating systems for chocolates and candy, and I still remember my first time going to Australia I went to visit the milk bar they told me about to get some chocolates and a shake.

Yeah, Santa Barbara is a still a melting pot. I like it here. There’re a lot of interesting characters.

What is it you want us to take away from Tom Curren in the end?

I guess it goes back to what we're talking about, just being a part of Santa Barbara. There’s a sort of mood here with guys like my dad, and Yater and Greenough and Al and Kim Mearig, and lots of other people too. It's a special place, and we’ve had a big impact, so if for nothing else, I just want to be remembered for being part of that tradition.

[Photos: Art Brewer, Steve Triance, John Seaton Callahan, Tom Servais]

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