Kelly and his wave machine sure did suck the oxygen from the room last week, and you gotta credit the old fella for still owning the surf-world narrative. Kelly’s pool, for me, is a major disturbance in the Matrix. Surfing is a strange and singular activity, with one foot in the world of sport and the other in some kind of D&D-like semi-fantasy world of our own creation. With the pool, I think we’re on the verge of trading magic for perfection. But that’s just one opinion; my own personal Matrix. A lot of people are stoked and excited about what happened last week, and even if I don’t share those feelings, I understand the buzz. In any event, I do think that a hundred years from now, whoever writes the updated History of Surfing will divide the sport into two basic time periods: BP (before pool), and AP (after).
“Flight of the Larrikin,” the History of Surfing section I posted on Monday, takes place mostly in the ’50s and early ’60s, and sets up Australia’s upcoming rocket-like rise to surfing prominence. Snow McAlister added his sweet and humorous voice to Above the Roar, while Nick Carroll offered a short profile on Bob Pike, who Nick describes as “the first and greatest Australian big-wave rider.” Don’t believe him? Have a look at the pic below. Pike lived for those moments, he was full-speed-ahead, elbow-to-elbow with Noll and Curren and Trent. (If you haven’t seen this video of Pike going over the falls at Pipe back in the earlies, have a look, it’s horrifying.)
See you next week,