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Mark Sainsbury

Renny Yater

Margo Godfrey (1970)

So be generous, be kind, pick up hitchhikers. When you're cranky and mean, things always turn out badly.

Larry Blair

I'd like to win the Pipeline Masters five times. I'd be happy just to win it three, though.

Bill Hamilton

Ronnie Burns

After a while, surfing Pipe is just like surfing Rocky Point

Dick Dale

Barry Kanaiaupuni

Brock Little (1986)

Sometimes in the water I'll be saying to myself, “What are you doing, Brock, you’re so dumb.”

Harold Iggy

It is a form of surfing, I guess. But a surfer prefers a real wave, not an artificial one.

Margo Oberg (1979, 1984)

I started surfing because I really like to be alone

Johnny Fain

I didn’t pay attention to what was going on with Gidget and Moondoggie and the rest. I didn’t know who was waffling who in the shack. I was too busy learning how to surf.

Jock Sutherland

You’re out there to surf . . . it's definitely a lusty situation.

Dru Harrison

Glen Winton

What was unconventional then is conventional now. What we thought was impossible is possible today.

Tom Carroll

The key is to not bullshit yourself. Don’t create something that isn’t there inside you. If you're faking it, it'll be really obvious.

Midget Farrelly

Claude Codgen

If a person is a great surfer, they know something that you don’t know. And that’s what I try to look for. I learn from them all.

Bruce Raymond

I joined the fire department and earned $150 a week and I’d spent $100 of that on dope.

Gary Green

J Riddle

From out of nowhere this board comes flying at me, knocking me 15-feet in the air. I turned around, and it was Dora. He’d just done a flying kickout on a ten-year-old kid!

Turkey Love

You know something I hate to admit? For all the years I've been on the beach, I never did own a surfboard.

Dane Kealoha

There’s always gonna be kids coming up to push the older guys overboard. I give myself three more years, then I’m gonna have to get into something else.

Peter Townend

I loved the fame, I fuckin’ danced on tabletops after the contest, and if I could’ve hung out with Bob Dylan, great.

Grubby Clark

It’s dirty, messy, and it’s hard work, and it’s not anything you'd dream of doing for a career.

Rusty Miller

I never thought of surfing in terms of a career. It was just something we did. I mean, I was going to be a political science teacher.

Snow McAlister

In 1925 I was invited to give a boardriding display at Catherine Hill Bay, near Newcastle. I found suitable waves near the mine jetty.

Neridah Falconer

I've never kissed anyone's arse to get what I have. There are always the battlers out there, and I'm one of 'em.

Miki Dora (1963)

Rell Sunn

John Milius

A movie about Vietnam has to have a surfer. It was a California war—all the dope, the peace symbols, the rock and roll.

Lorrin Harrison

George Downing

Mike Doyle

You have to know where your head is. You have to know if you're interested in other things, or if you’re just a surf freak.

Peter Drouyn

Let my opponent look at me and say “Fuck you,” or ”I love you,” or “Let’s fight it out to the end.” Let’s have some contact.

John Severson

Bryce Ellis

I do it for the sport. I like to compete. I’d still be doing the circuit if there was no money at all.

Matt Kivlin

The “Malibu style”—we got from Rabbit Kekai. We brought it back from Hawaii. Before that, everybody here just stood on the tail.

Dave Parmenter

I don’t need sponsors. I surf better when I’m broke anyway.

Steve Lis

Merv Larson

I'd go up and over with the lip, not make it, and my sinuses would be ruined for three weeks.

Sid Abbruzzi

Ian Cairns

I went out to ride a 25-foot wave in the same manner as if I was riding a four-foot wave.

Gary Propper

Hugh Bradner

You don’t have to stay dry to stay warm

Felipe Pomar

If I stayed in Peru I was going to have to work, and that would mean less surfing and I didn’t want to do that.

Skip Frye

Surfing is like playing music. You play different melodies with different boards.

Brock Little (2015)

I'll yell it out loud. I know I was the best guy, and I have no fucking problem with that. Then Shane Dorian came around.

Mark Richards (1993)

Rabbit would just molest you in a heat. I molested people, too. Maybe I just molested them in a nicer way.

Nat Young (1966)