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Mark Richards (1978)

John Severson

Doc Ball

Guys would get back from the war—the ones who survived—and they were hungry for waves. We had an outlet. Surf was it.

Miki Dora (1963)

Steve Lis

J Riddle

From out of nowhere this board comes flying at me, knocking me 15-feet in the air. I turned around, and it was Dora. He’d just done a flying kickout on a ten-year-old kid!

Walter Hoffman

Chris O'Rourke

Al Merrick

I wanted to be “the best shaper in the world”—except, you later realize, there's no such thing.

Bobby Martinez

Merv Larson

I'd go up and over with the lip, not make it, and my sinuses would be ruined for three weeks.

Tiger Espere

We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

Ian Cairns

I went out to ride a 25-foot wave in the same manner as if I was riding a four-foot wave.

Johnny Fain

I didn’t pay attention to what was going on with Gidget and Moondoggie and the rest. I didn’t know who was waffling who in the shack. I was too busy learning how to surf.

Alec Cooke

I paddled out at Waimea that morning with blood in my eyes.

Mike Doyle

You have to know where your head is. You have to know if you're interested in other things, or if you’re just a surf freak.

Jock Sutherland

You’re out there to surf . . . it's definitely a lusty situation.

Kaipo Jaquias

My dad always said he surfed better than me. I hated him, so that’s why I got to be better than him.

Mimi Munro

Turkey Love

You know something I hate to admit? For all the years I've been on the beach, I never did own a surfboard.

Brock Little (2015)

I'll yell it out loud. I know I was the best guy, and I have no fucking problem with that. Then Shane Dorian came around.

Neridah Falconer

I've never kissed anyone's arse to get what I have. There are always the battlers out there, and I'm one of 'em.

John Peck

Cheyne Horan

Felipe Pomar

If I stayed in Peru I was going to have to work, and that would mean less surfing and I didn’t want to do that.

Andy Irons

You gotta go in the mud sometimes to figure out who you are.

Brad Gerlach

Grubby Clark

It’s dirty, messy, and it’s hard work, and it’s not anything you'd dream of doing for a career.

Corky Carroll

I had to sell the Porsche. Which was fine. It's a dumb car for a surfer, when you think about it.

Terry Fitzgerald

Miki Dora (1969)

When there’s surf, I’m totally committed; when there’s none, it doesn’t exist.

Joyce Hoffman

Jimmy Lucas

My mother made me my first board, and it was a very good board.

Jack O'Neill

What’s better than going surfing? What better possible way to occupy your time?

Sid Abbruzzi

Simon Anderson (1981)

Some people openly laughed. All year people they were saying that the Thruster wouldn’t work.

Michael Peterson

I’ll never be a has-been. I’ll just drop off undefeated.

Larry Bertlemann

Chappy Jennings

What’s going on when surfers are getting tattoos? I mean, what direction is it headed?

Margo Oberg (1979, 1984)

I started surfing because I really like to be alone

Renny Yater

Warren Bolster

I love real hard, and I hate real hard.

Jack Shipley

Peter Drouyn is the unsung hero. He impressed me with his surfing, but staggered me with his thinking.

Shane Beschen

Mike Tabeling

Rell Sunn

Ed "Big Daddy" Roth

Harold Iggy

It is a form of surfing, I guess. But a surfer prefers a real wave, not an artificial one.

Ronnie Burns

After a while, surfing Pipe is just like surfing Rocky Point

Tom Morey

My idea of a true surfer is a guy with practically no muscles: A pure loafer, just barely squeaking through it all.