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John Severson

Barton Lynch

I’ve got a brain and I’m proud of it and I’m going to use it.

Jimmy Lucas

My mother made me my first board, and it was a very good board.

Kaipo Jaquias

My dad always said he surfed better than me. I hated him, so that’s why I got to be better than him.

Hobie Alter

My dad encouraged me to go into the surfboard business. He didn’t think I was going anywhere in school.

Pete Peterson

The girl makes a tandem team. If she looks like a sack of flour up there you wouldn’t get many points.

Gerry Lopez

Nat Young (1966)

Miki Dora (1963)

Kalani Robb

I was the youngest kid ever on the WCT. I'd get kicked me out of the competitors’ area because the bouncers thought I was just some lost grommet.

Neridah Falconer

I've never kissed anyone's arse to get what I have. There are always the battlers out there, and I'm one of 'em.

Bruce Raymond

I joined the fire department and earned $150 a week and I’d spent $100 of that on dope.

Chappy Jennings

What’s going on when surfers are getting tattoos? I mean, what direction is it headed?

Butch Van Artsdalen

I don’t want to be connected with surfing in a business way. I’d like to be a plumber.

Conrad Canha

It's bitchin’. I work three months, then draw unemployment the rest of the year and have a great time.

Alby Falzon

Once I made Morning of the Earth, what else was there to say?

Keone Downing

Ian Cairns

I went out to ride a 25-foot wave in the same manner as if I was riding a four-foot wave.

Peter Drouyn

Let my opponent look at me and say “Fuck you,” or ”I love you,” or “Let’s fight it out to the end.” Let’s have some contact.

John Milius

A movie about Vietnam has to have a surfer. It was a California war—all the dope, the peace symbols, the rock and roll.

Glen Winton

What was unconventional then is conventional now. What we thought was impossible is possible today.

Peter Townend

I loved the fame, I fuckin’ danced on tabletops after the contest, and if I could’ve hung out with Bob Dylan, great.

Cheyne Horan

Shane Beschen

Ryan Dotson

Things will just keep progressing. Radical surfing is here to stay.

George Downing

Dru Harrison

Simon Anderson (1981)

Some people openly laughed. All year people they were saying that the Thruster wouldn’t work.

John Peck

Bev Morgan

There’s a limit to how much you can bullshit in surfing. In the end, you have to be able to look in the mirror and say, “I can ride this wave or I can’t.”

Harold Iggy

It is a form of surfing, I guess. But a surfer prefers a real wave, not an artificial one.

Jack Shipley

Peter Drouyn is the unsung hero. He impressed me with his surfing, but staggered me with his thinking.

Jim Banks

There was no way I was coming out of that tube, but I did, and everyone was just screaming, the whole beach was screaming.

Margo Oberg (1979, 1984)

I started surfing because I really like to be alone

Keith Paull

My strongest desire was to travel. To me, the more beaches you surfed the better surfer you become.

LeRoy Grannis

I drove to Malibu after the war, and there were a dozen guys in the water. I turned to a friend of mine and said, "Well, it's ruined."

Shaun Tomson

Being spat out of one of those giant, roaring Hawaiian tubes . . . it's joy, fear and accomplishment all rolled into one experience.

Merv Larson

I'd go up and over with the lip, not make it, and my sinuses would be ruined for three weeks.

Greg Mungall

That’s when you’re really making something work. When you hate the other guy because he surfs better than you.

Phil Edwards

Sometimes I feel like a two-bit version of Mickey Dora.

Michael Burness

I can think of a few guys on the circuit who would definitely benefit from two years spent in the army.

Bill Hamilton

Tom Blake

Surfing leads you through life, especially when you’re young and with hope in your heart.

Rell Sunn

Barry Kanaiaupuni

Tiger Espere

We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

Steve Lis

Dick Brewer

Kim Mearig

Dave Parmenter

I don’t need sponsors. I surf better when I’m broke anyway.