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Paul Strauch

Brad Gerlach

Mike Doyle

You have to know where your head is. You have to know if you're interested in other things, or if you’re just a surf freak.

Sharron Weber

I’m not making excuses, but I had a little hangover after going out the night before with some guys from the Puerto Rican team

Keone Downing

Chris O'Rourke

Bill Hamilton

Dale Velzy

My grandfather built caskets, including President Teddy Roosevelt’s, so we we had a full set of tools. That's how I got into building boards.

Walter Hoffman

Alec Cooke

I paddled out at Waimea that morning with blood in my eyes.

Phil Edwards

Sometimes I feel like a two-bit version of Mickey Dora.

Jim Banks

There was no way I was coming out of that tube, but I did, and everyone was just screaming, the whole beach was screaming.

Bev Morgan

There’s a limit to how much you can bullshit in surfing. In the end, you have to be able to look in the mirror and say, “I can ride this wave or I can’t.”

Turkey Love

You know something I hate to admit? For all the years I've been on the beach, I never did own a surfboard.

Hobie Alter

My dad encouraged me to go into the surfboard business. He didn’t think I was going anywhere in school.

Linda Merrill

I’ve traveled to several other breaks, but guys don’t usually like girls along on surfing trips too much.

Mike Tabeling

Midget Farrelly

Tiger Espere

We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

Johnny Fain

I didn’t pay attention to what was going on with Gidget and Moondoggie and the rest. I didn’t know who was waffling who in the shack. I was too busy learning how to surf.

Gerry Lopez

Terry Fitzgerald

Snow McAlister

In 1925 I was invited to give a boardriding display at Catherine Hill Bay, near Newcastle. I found suitable waves near the mine jetty.

Andy Irons

You gotta go in the mud sometimes to figure out who you are.

Jack Shipley

Peter Drouyn is the unsung hero. He impressed me with his surfing, but staggered me with his thinking.

Margo Oberg (1979, 1984)

I started surfing because I really like to be alone

Mark Richards (1978)

Simon Anderson (2006)

I’m not a religious person, but I know man was not meant to be walking back and forth in a 14′ x 8′ box with fluorescent lights on the side, shaping surfboards.

Mary Ann Hawkins

Michael Peterson

I’ll never be a has-been. I’ll just drop off undefeated.

Mark Sainsbury

Barry Kanaiaupuni

Miki Dora (1969)

When there’s surf, I’m totally committed; when there’s none, it doesn’t exist.

Dave Parmenter

I don’t need sponsors. I surf better when I’m broke anyway.

Skip Frye

Surfing is like playing music. You play different melodies with different boards.

Gary Propper

Corky Carroll

I had to sell the Porsche. Which was fine. It's a dumb car for a surfer, when you think about it.

Kathy Kohner

I was just a girl who surfed, and the guys at Malibu named me Gidget. Then I left and everything went crazy.

Cheyne Horan

Michael Burness

I can think of a few guys on the circuit who would definitely benefit from two years spent in the army.

Keith Paull

My strongest desire was to travel. To me, the more beaches you surfed the better surfer you become.

Al Merrick

I wanted to be “the best shaper in the world”—except, you later realize, there's no such thing.

Matt Kivlin

The “Malibu style”—we got from Rabbit Kekai. We brought it back from Hawaii. Before that, everybody here just stood on the tail.

Butch Van Artsdalen

I don’t want to be connected with surfing in a business way. I’d like to be a plumber.

Felipe Pomar

If I stayed in Peru I was going to have to work, and that would mean less surfing and I didn’t want to do that.

Greg Mungall

That’s when you’re really making something work. When you hate the other guy because he surfs better than you.

Jeff Hakman

Surfing is almost a way to fly.

Barton Lynch

I’ve got a brain and I’m proud of it and I’m going to use it.

Claude Codgen

If a person is a great surfer, they know something that you don’t know. And that’s what I try to look for. I learn from them all.

Jack O'Neill

What’s better than going surfing? What better possible way to occupy your time?