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Harold Iggy

It is a form of surfing, I guess. But a surfer prefers a real wave, not an artificial one.

Keith Paull

My strongest desire was to travel. To me, the more beaches you surfed the better surfer you become.

Neridah Falconer

I've never kissed anyone's arse to get what I have. There are always the battlers out there, and I'm one of 'em.

Tom Blake

Surfing leads you through life, especially when you’re young and with hope in your heart.

Tiger Espere

We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

Renny Yater

Skip Frye

Surfing is like playing music. You play different melodies with different boards.

Cheyne Horan

Sharron Weber

I’m not making excuses, but I had a little hangover after going out the night before with some guys from the Puerto Rican team

Sunny Garcia

Dick Brewer

Corky Carroll

I had to sell the Porsche. Which was fine. It's a dumb car for a surfer, when you think about it.

Dick Dale

Al Merrick

I wanted to be “the best shaper in the world”—except, you later realize, there's no such thing.

Mark Richards (1978)

Pauline Menczer

Guys who aren’t so good looking can get by on personality. Women can’t do that.

Greg Mungall

That’s when you’re really making something work. When you hate the other guy because he surfs better than you.

George Downing

Barry Kanaiaupuni

Tom Morey

My idea of a true surfer is a guy with practically no muscles: A pure loafer, just barely squeaking through it all.

Brad Gerlach

Miki Dora (1963)

Jim Banks

There was no way I was coming out of that tube, but I did, and everyone was just screaming, the whole beach was screaming.

Mary Ann Hawkins

Jack O'Neill

What’s better than going surfing? What better possible way to occupy your time?

Barton Lynch

I’ve got a brain and I’m proud of it and I’m going to use it.

Ronnie Burns

After a while, surfing Pipe is just like surfing Rocky Point

Peter Drouyn

Let my opponent look at me and say “Fuck you,” or ”I love you,” or “Let’s fight it out to the end.” Let’s have some contact.

Phil Edwards

Sometimes I feel like a two-bit version of Mickey Dora.

Margo Godfrey (1970)

So be generous, be kind, pick up hitchhikers. When you're cranky and mean, things always turn out badly.

Jimmy Lucas

My mother made me my first board, and it was a very good board.

Ian Cairns

I went out to ride a 25-foot wave in the same manner as if I was riding a four-foot wave.

Gerry Lopez

Lorrin Harrison

Matt Kivlin

The “Malibu style”—we got from Rabbit Kekai. We brought it back from Hawaii. Before that, everybody here just stood on the tail.

Nat Young (1966)

Grubby Clark

It’s dirty, messy, and it’s hard work, and it’s not anything you'd dream of doing for a career.

Tom Carroll

The key is to not bullshit yourself. Don’t create something that isn’t there inside you. If you're faking it, it'll be really obvious.

Bobby Martinez

Bruce Raymond

I joined the fire department and earned $150 a week and I’d spent $100 of that on dope.

Rusty Miller

I never thought of surfing in terms of a career. It was just something we did. I mean, I was going to be a political science teacher.

Chappy Jennings

What’s going on when surfers are getting tattoos? I mean, what direction is it headed?

Andy Irons

You gotta go in the mud sometimes to figure out who you are.

Kaipo Jaquias

My dad always said he surfed better than me. I hated him, so that’s why I got to be better than him.

Jock Sutherland

You’re out there to surf . . . it's definitely a lusty situation.

Margo Oberg (1979, 1984)

I started surfing because I really like to be alone

Hugh Bradner

You don’t have to stay dry to stay warm

Michael Burness

I can think of a few guys on the circuit who would definitely benefit from two years spent in the army.

John Peck

Hobie Alter

My dad encouraged me to go into the surfboard business. He didn’t think I was going anywhere in school.