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Bob Cooper

Dick Brewer

LeRoy Grannis

I drove to Malibu after the war, and there were a dozen guys in the water. I turned to a friend of mine and said, "Well, it's ruined."

Brad Gerlach

Steve Lis

Snow McAlister

In 1925 I was invited to give a boardriding display at Catherine Hill Bay, near Newcastle. I found suitable waves near the mine jetty.

Bruce Raymond

I joined the fire department and earned $150 a week and I’d spent $100 of that on dope.

Bill Hamilton

John Severson

Jimmy Lucas

My mother made me my first board, and it was a very good board.

Joyce Hoffman

Michael Peterson

I’ll never be a has-been. I’ll just drop off undefeated.

Alby Falzon

Once I made Morning of the Earth, what else was there to say?

Margo Godfrey

So be generous, be kind, pick up hitchhikers. When you're cranky and mean, things always turn out badly.

Keone Downing

Jeff Hakman

Surfing is almost a way to fly.

Harold Iggy

It is a form of surfing, I guess. But a surfer prefers a real wave, not an artificial one.

Ed "Big Daddy" Roth

Alec Cooke

I paddled out at Waimea that morning with blood in my eyes.

Phil Edwards

Sometimes I feel like a two-bit version of Mickey Dora.

Barton Lynch

I’ve got a brain and I’m proud of it and I’m going to use it.

George Downing

Skip Frye

Surfing is like playing music. You play different melodies with different boards.

Shane Beschen

Tom Blake

Surfing leads you through life, especially when you’re young and with hope in your heart.

Glen Winton

What was unconventional then is conventional now. What we thought was impossible is possible today.

Kim Mearig

Jim Banks

There was no way I was coming out of that tube, but I did, and everyone was just screaming, the whole beach was screaming.

Cheyne Horan

Felipe Pomar

If I stayed in Peru I was going to have to work, and that would mean less surfing and I didn’t want to do that.

Peter Townend

I loved the fame, I fuckin’ danced on tabletops after the contest, and if I could’ve hung out with Bob Dylan, great.

Tiger Espere

We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

Ryan Dotson

Things will just keep progressing. Radical surfing is here to stay.

Mike Hynson

Kathy Kohner

I was just a girl who surfed, and the guys at Malibu named me Gidget. Then I left and everything went crazy.

Bobby Martinez

Dave Parmenter

I don’t need sponsors. I surf better when I’m broke anyway.

Jack Haley

Pete Peterson

The girl makes a tandem team. If she looks like a sack of flour up there you wouldn’t get many points.

Dru Harrison

Corky Carroll

I had to sell the Porsche. Which was fine. It's a dumb car for a surfer, when you think about it.

Barry Kanaiaupuni

Nat Young (1966)

Shaun Tomson

Being spat out of one of those giant, roaring Hawaiian tubes . . . it's joy, fear and accomplishment all rolled into one experience.

Gary Green

Keith Paull

My strongest desire was to travel. To me, the more beaches you surfed the better surfer you become.

Donald Takayama

I named it “Velzyland,” because I worked for Velzy, and because I always wanted to go to Disneyland.

Lorrin Harrison

Greg Mungall

That’s when you’re really making something work. When you hate the other guy because he surfs better than you.

Al Merrick

I wanted to be “the best shaper in the world”—except, you later realize, there's no such thing.