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Johnny Fain

I didn’t pay attention to what was going on with Gidget and Moondoggie and the rest. I didn’t know who was waffling who in the shack. I was too busy learning how to surf.

Butch Van Artsdalen

I don’t want to be connected with surfing in a business way. I’d like to be a plumber.

Bobby Martinez

Larry Bertlemann

Turkey Love

You know something I hate to admit? For all the years I've been on the beach, I never did own a surfboard.

Mimi Munro

Conrad Canha

It's bitchin’. I work three months, then draw unemployment the rest of the year and have a great time.

Renny Yater

John Peck

Mark Sainsbury

Rusty Miller

I never thought of surfing in terms of a career. It was just something we did. I mean, I was going to be a political science teacher.

Felipe Pomar

If I stayed in Peru I was going to have to work, and that would mean less surfing and I didn’t want to do that.

Tiger Espere

We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

Jimmy Lucas

My mother made me my first board, and it was a very good board.

Mary Ann Hawkins

Alec Cooke

I paddled out at Waimea that morning with blood in my eyes.

George Downing

Gary Propper

Gary Green

Ed "Big Daddy" Roth

John Severson

Simon Anderson (2006)

I’m not a religious person, but I know man was not meant to be walking back and forth in a 14′ x 8′ box with fluorescent lights on the side, shaping surfboards.

John Milius

A movie about Vietnam has to have a surfer. It was a California war—all the dope, the peace symbols, the rock and roll.

Shaun Tomson

Being spat out of one of those giant, roaring Hawaiian tubes . . . it's joy, fear and accomplishment all rolled into one experience.

Larry Blair

I'd like to win the Pipeline Masters five times. I'd be happy just to win it three, though.

Snow McAlister

In 1925 I was invited to give a boardriding display at Catherine Hill Bay, near Newcastle. I found suitable waves near the mine jetty.

Jack O'Neill

What’s better than going surfing? What better possible way to occupy your time?

Walter Hoffman

Bill Hamilton

Mike Tabeling

Bruce Raymond

I joined the fire department and earned $150 a week and I’d spent $100 of that on dope.

Miki Dora (1969)

When there’s surf, I’m totally committed; when there’s none, it doesn’t exist.

Greg Mungall

That’s when you’re really making something work. When you hate the other guy because he surfs better than you.

Tom Carroll

The key is to not bullshit yourself. Don’t create something that isn’t there inside you. If you're faking it, it'll be really obvious.

Al Merrick

I wanted to be “the best shaper in the world”—except, you later realize, there's no such thing.

Jock Sutherland

You’re out there to surf . . . it's definitely a lusty situation.

Mark Richards (1993)

Rabbit would just molest you in a heat. I molested people, too. Maybe I just molested them in a nicer way.

Kaipo Jaquias

My dad always said he surfed better than me. I hated him, so that’s why I got to be better than him.

Brock Little (2015)

I'll yell it out loud. I know I was the best guy, and I have no fucking problem with that. Then Shane Dorian came around.

Steve Lis

Tom Blake

Surfing leads you through life, especially when you’re young and with hope in your heart.

LeRoy Grannis

I drove to Malibu after the war, and there were a dozen guys in the water. I turned to a friend of mine and said, "Well, it's ruined."

Mike Hynson

Chappy Jennings

What’s going on when surfers are getting tattoos? I mean, what direction is it headed?

Skip Frye

Surfing is like playing music. You play different melodies with different boards.

Peter Townend

I loved the fame, I fuckin’ danced on tabletops after the contest, and if I could’ve hung out with Bob Dylan, great.

Jack Haley

Bryce Ellis

I do it for the sport. I like to compete. I’d still be doing the circuit if there was no money at all.

Cheyne Horan

Dale Velzy

My grandfather built caskets, including President Teddy Roosevelt’s, so we we had a full set of tools. That's how I got into building boards.