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Barton Lynch

I’ve got a brain and I’m proud of it and I’m going to use it.

Jeff Hakman

Surfing is almost a way to fly.

Pete Peterson

The girl makes a tandem team. If she looks like a sack of flour up there you wouldn’t get many points.

Grubby Clark

It’s dirty, messy, and it’s hard work, and it’s not anything you'd dream of doing for a career.

Gerry Lopez

Simon Anderson (1981)

Some people openly laughed. All year people they were saying that the Thruster wouldn’t work.

Jack Shipley

Peter Drouyn is the unsung hero. He impressed me with his surfing, but staggered me with his thinking.

Mark Richards (1993)

Rabbit would just molest you in a heat. I molested people, too. Maybe I just molested them in a nicer way.

Bob Cooper

Mary Ann Hawkins

Chris O'Rourke

Margo Godfrey (1970)

So be generous, be kind, pick up hitchhikers. When you're cranky and mean, things always turn out badly.

Harold Iggy

It is a form of surfing, I guess. But a surfer prefers a real wave, not an artificial one.

Pauline Menczer

Guys who aren’t so good looking can get by on personality. Women can’t do that.

Ed "Big Daddy" Roth

Margo Oberg (1979, 1984)

I started surfing because I really like to be alone

Dick Brewer

Kathy Kohner

I was just a girl who surfed, and the guys at Malibu named me Gidget. Then I left and everything went crazy.

Butch Van Artsdalen

I don’t want to be connected with surfing in a business way. I’d like to be a plumber.

Matt Kivlin

The “Malibu style”—we got from Rabbit Kekai. We brought it back from Hawaii. Before that, everybody here just stood on the tail.

Rusty Miller

I never thought of surfing in terms of a career. It was just something we did. I mean, I was going to be a political science teacher.

Tom Blake

Surfing leads you through life, especially when you’re young and with hope in your heart.

Al Merrick

I wanted to be “the best shaper in the world”—except, you later realize, there's no such thing.

Peter Drouyn

Let my opponent look at me and say “Fuck you,” or ”I love you,” or “Let’s fight it out to the end.” Let’s have some contact.

Bobby Martinez

Keith Paull

My strongest desire was to travel. To me, the more beaches you surfed the better surfer you become.

Gary Green

Michael Burness

I can think of a few guys on the circuit who would definitely benefit from two years spent in the army.

Rell Sunn

Dick Dale

Walter Hoffman

Shane Beschen

Dave Parmenter

I don’t need sponsors. I surf better when I’m broke anyway.

Barry Kanaiaupuni

Tom Morey

My idea of a true surfer is a guy with practically no muscles: A pure loafer, just barely squeaking through it all.

Bill Hamilton

Ryan Dotson

Things will just keep progressing. Radical surfing is here to stay.

Paul Strauch

Kalani Robb

I was the youngest kid ever on the WCT. I'd get kicked me out of the competitors’ area because the bouncers thought I was just some lost grommet.

Sid Abbruzzi

Corky Carroll

I had to sell the Porsche. Which was fine. It's a dumb car for a surfer, when you think about it.

Sunny Garcia

Ronnie Burns

After a while, surfing Pipe is just like surfing Rocky Point

Bruce Raymond

I joined the fire department and earned $150 a week and I’d spent $100 of that on dope.

Jimmy Lucas

My mother made me my first board, and it was a very good board.

Merv Larson

I'd go up and over with the lip, not make it, and my sinuses would be ruined for three weeks.

Donald Takayama

I named it “Velzyland,” because I worked for Velzy, and because I always wanted to go to Disneyland.

Mark Richards (1978)

Jack O'Neill

What’s better than going surfing? What better possible way to occupy your time?

Felipe Pomar

If I stayed in Peru I was going to have to work, and that would mean less surfing and I didn’t want to do that.