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Ian Cairns

I went out to ride a 25-foot wave in the same manner as if I was riding a four-foot wave.

Simon Anderson (1981)

Some people openly laughed. All year people they were saying that the Thruster wouldn’t work.

Mark Richards (1993)

Rabbit would just molest you in a heat. I molested people, too. Maybe I just molested them in a nicer way.

Joyce Hoffman

Jock Sutherland

You’re out there to surf . . . it's definitely a lusty situation.

Midget Farrelly

Eddie Aikau

I’ve gone over to Barry Kanaiaupuni’s way of thinking. Turns are all I’m interested in now.

Corky Carroll

I had to sell the Porsche. Which was fine. It's a dumb car for a surfer, when you think about it.

Jimmy Lucas

My mother made me my first board, and it was a very good board.

Simon Anderson (2006)

I’m not a religious person, but I know man was not meant to be walking back and forth in a 14′ x 8′ box with fluorescent lights on the side, shaping surfboards.

Keith Paull

My strongest desire was to travel. To me, the more beaches you surfed the better surfer you become.

Turkey Love

You know something I hate to admit? For all the years I've been on the beach, I never did own a surfboard.

Gerry Lopez

Rell Sunn

Johnny Fain

I didn’t pay attention to what was going on with Gidget and Moondoggie and the rest. I didn’t know who was waffling who in the shack. I was too busy learning how to surf.

Mike Tabeling

Tiger Espere

We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

Renny Yater

Pauline Menczer

Guys who aren’t so good looking can get by on personality. Women can’t do that.

Mike Hynson

LeRoy Grannis

I drove to Malibu after the war, and there were a dozen guys in the water. I turned to a friend of mine and said, "Well, it's ruined."

Chappy Jennings

What’s going on when surfers are getting tattoos? I mean, what direction is it headed?

Al Merrick

I wanted to be “the best shaper in the world”—except, you later realize, there's no such thing.

Michael Burness

I can think of a few guys on the circuit who would definitely benefit from two years spent in the army.

Bev Morgan

There’s a limit to how much you can bullshit in surfing. In the end, you have to be able to look in the mirror and say, “I can ride this wave or I can’t.”

Bobby Martinez

Lorrin Harrison

Sharron Weber

I’m not making excuses, but I had a little hangover after going out the night before with some guys from the Puerto Rican team

Larry Bertlemann

Peter Drouyn

Let my opponent look at me and say “Fuck you,” or ”I love you,” or “Let’s fight it out to the end.” Let’s have some contact.

George Downing

Neridah Falconer

I've never kissed anyone's arse to get what I have. There are always the battlers out there, and I'm one of 'em.

Pete Peterson

The girl makes a tandem team. If she looks like a sack of flour up there you wouldn’t get many points.

Mimi Munro

Tom Carroll

The key is to not bullshit yourself. Don’t create something that isn’t there inside you. If you're faking it, it'll be really obvious.

Doc Ball

Guys would get back from the war—the ones who survived—and they were hungry for waves. We had an outlet. Surf was it.

John Milius

A movie about Vietnam has to have a surfer. It was a California war—all the dope, the peace symbols, the rock and roll.

Dru Harrison

Harold Iggy

It is a form of surfing, I guess. But a surfer prefers a real wave, not an artificial one.

Dane Kealoha

There’s always gonna be kids coming up to push the older guys overboard. I give myself three more years, then I’m gonna have to get into something else.

Tom Blake

Surfing leads you through life, especially when you’re young and with hope in your heart.

Gary Propper

Jack Haley

Wayne Bartholomew

Shaun Tomson was the pace-setter, he broke the most new ground. My trip was more search and destroy. He was the technician. I was Attila the Hun.

Jack O'Neill

What’s better than going surfing? What better possible way to occupy your time?

Ryan Dotson

Things will just keep progressing. Radical surfing is here to stay.

Hugh Bradner

You don’t have to stay dry to stay warm

Ronnie Burns

After a while, surfing Pipe is just like surfing Rocky Point

Dick Dale

Grubby Clark

It’s dirty, messy, and it’s hard work, and it’s not anything you'd dream of doing for a career.