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Tom Blake

Surfing leads you through life, especially when you’re young and with hope in your heart.

Merv Larson

I'd go up and over with the lip, not make it, and my sinuses would be ruined for three weeks.

Jack Haley

Tiger Espere

We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

Brad Gerlach

Dane Kealoha

There’s always gonna be kids coming up to push the older guys overboard. I give myself three more years, then I’m gonna have to get into something else.

Michael Peterson

I’ll never be a has-been. I’ll just drop off undefeated.

Sharron Weber

I’m not making excuses, but I had a little hangover after going out the night before with some guys from the Puerto Rican team

Greg Mungall

That’s when you’re really making something work. When you hate the other guy because he surfs better than you.

John Milius

A movie about Vietnam has to have a surfer. It was a California war—all the dope, the peace symbols, the rock and roll.

Joyce Hoffman

Shaun Tomson

Being spat out of one of those giant, roaring Hawaiian tubes . . . it's joy, fear and accomplishment all rolled into one experience.

Jock Sutherland

You’re out there to surf . . . it's definitely a lusty situation.

Al Merrick

I wanted to be “the best shaper in the world”—except, you later realize, there's no such thing.

Ronnie Burns

After a while, surfing Pipe is just like surfing Rocky Point

George Downing

Kalani Robb

I was the youngest kid ever on the WCT. I'd get kicked me out of the competitors’ area because the bouncers thought I was just some lost grommet.

Bobby Martinez

Ed "Big Daddy" Roth

Sid Abbruzzi

Paul Strauch

Cheyne Horan

Gerry Lopez

Mike Hynson

Dick Dale

Jim Banks

There was no way I was coming out of that tube, but I did, and everyone was just screaming, the whole beach was screaming.

Hugh Bradner

You don’t have to stay dry to stay warm

Larry Bertlemann

Bev Morgan

There’s a limit to how much you can bullshit in surfing. In the end, you have to be able to look in the mirror and say, “I can ride this wave or I can’t.”

Mark Sainsbury

Barton Lynch

I’ve got a brain and I’m proud of it and I’m going to use it.

Glen Winton

What was unconventional then is conventional now. What we thought was impossible is possible today.

Butch Van Artsdalen

I don’t want to be connected with surfing in a business way. I’d like to be a plumber.

Lorrin Harrison

LeRoy Grannis

I drove to Malibu after the war, and there were a dozen guys in the water. I turned to a friend of mine and said, "Well, it's ruined."

Andy Irons

You gotta go in the mud sometimes to figure out who you are.

Mark Richards (1978)

Ian Cairns

I went out to ride a 25-foot wave in the same manner as if I was riding a four-foot wave.

Bruce Raymond

I joined the fire department and earned $150 a week and I’d spent $100 of that on dope.

Kim Mearig

Keone Downing

Keith Paull

My strongest desire was to travel. To me, the more beaches you surfed the better surfer you become.

Wayne Bartholomew

Shaun Tomson was the pace-setter, he broke the most new ground. My trip was more search and destroy. He was the technician. I was Attila the Hun.

Ryan Dotson

Things will just keep progressing. Radical surfing is here to stay.

Donald Takayama

I named it “Velzyland,” because I worked for Velzy, and because I always wanted to go to Disneyland.

Dick Brewer

Kathy Kohner

I was just a girl who surfed, and the guys at Malibu named me Gidget. Then I left and everything went crazy.

Dru Harrison

Walter Hoffman

Chris O'Rourke