Ben Aipa

Honolulu 1967, 1999

Larry Bertlemann's surfing was so far ahead of board design that I had to come up with something new.

“Hawaii’s New Breed,” by Dick Graham, ran in the May 1967 issue of Surfing magazine, when Aipa was 24. The version has been edited and shortened.

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I really admire Joe Kitchens from Hawaii and Dewey Weber. I would describe my style of surfing as always moving and just really trying to work the wave.

I always study it first. Some days when it’s big I don’t go out, because I don’t think I should. I feel you definitely need training to ride big waves. Training, a...