There’s a limit to how much you can bullshit in surfing. In the end, you have to be able to look in the mirror and say, “I can ride this wave or I can’t.”
The quotes below are excerpted from “More Than My Share: Bev Morgan Stories and Photos,” which ran in the February 2007 issue of Surfer’s Journal. Morgan was 74.
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I started surfing in Santa Monica, just bodysurfing. Tom Zahn was the lifeguard, Tom and Pete Peterson. They took turns at the tower where I hung out. I got pretty good at bodysurfing and they recommended I buy a surfboard. It turns out that my playing ukulele during the day underneath their tower was driving th...