I’d like to get away and do a lot of deep thinking—find myself an acre up in the mountains somewhere, raise a few vegetables, keep a goat .
This opening section is excerpted from “Progressing Towards a New Direction: an Interview with Brad McCaul,” which ran uncredited in the September 1969 issue of Surfing. McCaul was 16 years old.
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How do you feel about recent board designs?
I think things are leveling off in board size from the radical scene of last summer—which was to see who could ride the shortest stick. Most top surfers are riding boards between seven and eight feet long, and as boardmakers learn more about lightn...