North Shore, 1986
Sometimes in the water I'll be saying to myself, “What are you doing, Brock, you’re so dumb.”
“Brock Little: A Breed Apart,” written by Matt Warshaw, ran in the May 1987 issue of SURFER. The version here has been edited and shortened.
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Right from the beginning, were you the kind of kid who would take off on anything?
Pretty much. I remember my friends always asking why I’d go out when it was so big. And when I was 12 or 13, I remember Bradshaw shaped me a board, a 5’6”, and I surfed a closeout day at Haleiwa on that. I wasn’t in control or anything. I was out there shitting m...