If you’re going to catch a locomotive, you’re not going to do it on a bicycle. Like Flippy Hoffman said, the ocean was made for pistons.
The quotes below are from Nick Carroll’s Darrick Doerner profile, which ran in the October 1990 issue of Surfing magazine.
ARRIVING ON THE NORTH SHORE
When I graduated [from high school], it was 1974. Me and David Kahanamoku went to the same school on the Big Island. We came straight here. Applied for the lifeguard job—and I’m still here. There wasn’t much room for a little guy like me in the tower, you know, so I used to walk around, watch the waves. Eddie [Aikau] would come to work in the m...