Dave Sweet

Santa Monica, 2005

My parents told me I was wasting my time. You’ll sell boards to a couple of friends and that'll be it. But anyway, yeah, foam caught on.

“The Foam Man: Dave Sweet’s Story,” by Steve Pezman, ran in the June 2006 issue of The Surfer’s Journal. This version has been slightly edited and shortened. 

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My parents had a summer home at the base of Topanga Canyon at the rodeo grounds, in the ’40s, six blocks from the. So, you know, living close to the beach, I got started. Dick Hunt, Jack Quigg, Fred Harrison were other kids surfing down there at the time. I was on the beach when they bombed Pearl Harbor. Then I pro...