Dave Sweet

Santa Monica, 2005

My parents told me I was wasting my time. You’ll sell boards to a couple of friends and that'll be it. But anyway, yeah, foam caught on.

"The Foam Man: Dave Sweet's Story," by Steve Pezman, ran in the June 2006 issue of The Surfer's Journal. This version has been slightly edited and shortened. * * * Beginnings? My parents had a summer home at the base of Topanga Canyon at the rodeo grounds, in the '40s, six blocks from the surf. So, you know, living close to the beach, I got started. Dick Hunt, Jack Quigg, Fred Harrison were oth...

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