Lacanau, France, 1994
Remember when those guys pulled out of the contest at Waimea, ’cause they were scared shitless? I’d like to see more of that.
Matt Warshaw’s unpublished interview with Derek Ho was recorded at the Lacanau Pro, France, in 1994. Ho was the defending world champion but had just lost an early-round heat in terrible surf.
What goes through your mind in a heat where the waves are that shitty? Is it a different thing compared to when the surf is good?
Different, for sure. You lose motivation. You almost don’t care if you win or lose. In this situation [the heat he’d just finished], I figured I’d win either way, cause if...