Guys would get back from the war—the ones who survived—and they were hungry for waves. We had an outlet. Surf was it.
John “Doc” Ball was interviewed a number of times during the 1990s by surfing historians Malcolm Gault-Williams and Gary Lynch. Some of the quotes below were used in “Window to the Soul” (SURFER, October 1990, Lynch), “Doc Ball: Through the Master’s Eye” (Longboard, August 1998, Gault-Williams and Lynch), and “Doc Ball: Surfing’s First Dedicated Photographer” (Legendary Surfers, Gault-Williams). Ball died in 2001, at age 94.
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My mother was a beautiful chicken, and a natu...