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Doc Ball

California, 1990s
Guys would get back from the war—the ones who survived—and they were hungry for waves. We had an outlet. Surf was it.

John “Doc” Ball was interviewed a number of times during the 1990s by surfing historians Malcolm Gault-Williams and Gary Lynch. Some of the quotes below were used in “Window to the Soul” (SURFER, October 1990, Lynch), “Doc Ball: Through the Master’s Eye” (Longboard, August 1998, Gault-Williams and Lynch), and “Doc Ball: Surfing’s First Dedicated Photographer” (Legendary Surfers, Gault-Williams). Ball died in 2001, at age 94. 

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THANKS MOM!
My mother was a beautiful chicken, and a natu...