Originally published as "An Interview with Eddie Aikau" in the June, 1969, issue of Petersen's Surfing. No author credit, but likely written either by editor Dick Graham or managing editor Duke Boyd. Aikau was 22 at the time of this interview.

In your opinion, who were the top surfers to visit Hawaii this past winter?

The top three would be Midget Farrelly, Nat Young and Mike Doyle.

What's impressed you about Midget's surfing this year?

Midget has been away from big waves for a while, and I thought it would take some time for him to get adjusted to Hawaiian surf. But he really impressed me, and a lot of other guys at Sunset, with his turns. He did real well.

Nat was known as a small wave specialist, and he surprised a lot of guys by doing so well in the Duke meet. His turns and cutbacks were really great.

I think his style is more aggressive this year. He kept his board moving. As a competitor he's always been good.

You seem to be riding with more versatility than in the past. What is your preference in waves now?

I've gone over to Barry Kanaiaupuni's way of thinking. Now my style is to get down to the bottom of the wave and power out the turn; angle the board so I can hit the lip of the wave, then bank right back down. Mostly I want to carve my rail against the bottom of the wave and just make a beautiful turn.

In the past, you've been known mainly for surfing large surf, but now you are excelling in medium-sized surf as well.

I think that has to do with the shortboard. I think it really improved my style a lot. Other guys say that the shortboard improved their styles, too. Some guys couldn't adjust, though, which made them go from better to worse.


Your favorite spot used to be Waimea. Now that you're more versatile, what spot do you prefer?

I like 10- to 12-foot waves, mainly at Sunset, where I can get all the speed I want. I like bottom turns the best. Just putting all my weight on the rail. Turns are all I'm interested in now.

What did you think of the Duke contest this year? [1968]

Every great power surfer was in the contest. All the top guys, from Ricky Grigg to Barry Kanaiaupuni. A lot of new guys, and a lot of new styles.

Everyone goes out there with the intention to win. My plan was just to turn as hard as I could, and do my best. But the waves kept getting bigger as the contest went, and as they did I had to slow down on the turns. On the day of finals, guys were working hard just to catch enough waves. The surf was too big to really crank a hard turn. [Aikau placed 8th.]

Ever since I was in that contest in Peru [1967 Peru International], I've been trying to develop a style that will allow me to make a go of it in contests. I'm surfing every day, trying to find out what I can and can't do. My job [at the Dole Cannery in Waikiki] has kept me from entering a lot of contests, but I'm going to try and do as many as I can in the future. I feel more at ease in contests now. I know what I'm doing on my board.

There's been a lot of talk recently about your brother Clyde. What's his scene?

Clyde rides Sunset Beach as well as me or anybody else. He's going to be the man to watch next year. Clyde has his own style, his own way of thinking.

This year, more than ever before, the North Shore was really crowded. What do you think will eventually happen to surfing on the North Shore?

I was talking to Billy Hamilton the other day, and we were discussing the North Shore scene. It actually wasn't as crowded this year as it was last year, since guys now are saying, "Let's go to Maui," or "Let's go to Kauai, and surf in peace." We have constant waves here, eight- to ten-feet during the winter, and a lot of kids go to school. Even if there are ten surfers out you always can find a wave to yourself. But you know how people are. "Oh, it's so crowded." No, it's not!

[Photos: Dan Merkel, John Severson, Bernie Baker]

Subscribe or Login

Encyclopedia of Surfing

History of Surfing

Interviews

Features

The Sunday Joint

Videos

Contests