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Greg Mungall

Orange County, California, 1981
That’s when you’re really making something work. When you hate the other guy because he surfs better than you.

Chris Carter (yes, that Chris Carter) interviewed Greg Mungall for the November 1981 issue of Surfing. Mungall was 25 years old.

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So you haven’t been surfing much lately?

Not really. I’ve just been working a lot. I’ve been surfing the contests, though. Three in the last month. Got a second, a third and a fourth. Three-sixties keep beating me. I gotta learn how to do those things. It’s kind of a killer. There was this one wave in the Rancho Cota contest where Byron Wong scored 19 points...