“Johnny Fain of Malibu,” by Denny Aaberg, ran in the Spring 1998 issue of Surfer’s Journal. All quotes featured here are from that article.
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My family moved to the Malibu Colony in 1944, the year after I was born. It was still wild. I remember armed gauchos on horseback, patrolling the beaches, keeping people away from the Rindge Estate on the point. Every day I would walk a mile to school—from the Colony to Webster Elementary, up on the hill. There were flocks of blue her...