Ken Bradshaw

Hawaii, 1988

Skiing is ten times as dangerous as surfing big waves. Jogging on the sidewalk is more dangerous than surfing big waves.

Matt Warshaw interviewed Ken Bradshaw in 1988, for an Outside magazine article titled “The Divided Rulers of Waimea Bay.” Bradshaw was 36 when this conversation took place.

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Is big-wave surfing really all that dangerous? 

No, not really. It can be. But after you study it, after you have an understanding of what you’re getting into, it’s not that risky. It’s like driving on the freeway. Once you know what you’re doing, it doesn’t seem like such a big deal to be doing 60, even though y...