I was always good in big surf. That’s where I felt most comfortable.
Excerpted from the Marge Calhoun chapter of Andrea Gabbard’s 2000 book Girl in the Curl. The interview itself took place in 1998 or 1999, when Calhoun was in her early 70s. Some quotes have been slightly edited
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The water was safe and curative. If I had problems—the stress of dealing with all the stuff that life entails—I’d go out surfing and look back at the land, and I’d forget what was bothering me. I’ve never experienced fear in the water. I always wore a grin and had a t...