Ventura, California, 2014
I'd go up and over with the lip, not make it, and my sinuses would be ruined for three weeks.
Merv Larson was 74 in 2014 when he talked with Matt Warshaw.
* * *
You were living in the Santa Barbara area in the late ’60s. Did you know George Greenough?
Oh sure. We were friends. We talked a lot in the water at Rincon. I went to the Ranch with George once, and we had a good time.
The two of you were both working so far outside and beyond what was happening with standard surfing at that point . . .
I don’t know if we really thought of it that way. But yes, George was going really deep ...