Mimi Munro

Ormond Beach, Florida, 2000 and 2002

My sister would sit in the car with the engine running, and I’d surf till I was numb, come in, thaw out in the car, and get back in the water.

The quotes below are taken from “Back for the Future: Mimi Munro,” by Paul Holmes, originally published in the June 2002 issue of Longboard; and from “Soul Survivor,” by Elizabeth Glazner, originally published in the Summer 2000 issue of Wahine magazine. In 2002, Munro was 50. 

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I was in the ocean from as far back as I can remember. My earliest memory—I was about two, still in diapers—was dipping for crabs on a full moon. They’d come to shore to lay eggs, so you could onl...