I wanted to be a surfer, but had no interest in staying on the beach one second longer than I had to.
Most of the quotes below are from “Perennial Pam Burridge,” by Elizabeth Glazner, published in Volume 4, Issue 4 (1998) of Wahine magazine. Some quotes are from the 1992 biography Pam Burridge, by Marion Stell.
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I was uncomfortable being a girl. Nobody who I surfed with knew I was a girl for about two years. I kept my mouth shut, so I didn’t get hassled; I didn’t have any older brothers to protect me. I just went to the beach, went surfing, and went home.
SURFING AS ESCAP...