Being spat out of one of those giant, roaring Hawaiian tubes . . . it's joy, fear and accomplishment all rolled into one experience.
All quotes below are from “Shaun at the Crossroads,” Phil Jarratt’s profile on Shaun Tomson, which ran in the December 1978 issue of SURFER. Tomson was 22.
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PROFESSIONAL SURFING, 1978
I’m very disillusioned with professionalism in surfing. I thought 1978 would be a big year, but it just hasn’t turned out that way. People haven’t accepted surfing as a mainstream sport, and consequently, it’s very difficult to make a living. I don’t think there’s enough money in the sport at the moment...