Shaun Tomson

Australia, 1978
Being spat out of one of those giant, roaring Hawaiian tubes . . . it's joy, fear and accomplishment all rolled into one experience.

Phil Jarratt’s profile on Shaun Tomson was published in the December 1978 issue of SURFER, titled “Shaun at the Crossroads.” Tomson was 22. Most of Jarratt’s article was written in profile format, but some was presented as Q&A.

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I’m very disillusioned with professionalism in surfing. I thought 1978 would be a big year, but it just hasn’t turned out that way. People haven’t accepted surfing as a mainstream sport, and consequently, it’s very difficult to make ...