North Shore, 1994
I'd go to bed at 5 in the morning, wake up still loaded, take big bong hits and go surf Pipe.
“The Angel Inside,” by Ben Marcus, ran in the December 1994 issue of SURFER. This version is been slightly shortened and edited.
* * *
Here you are, only 19 years old . . .
. . . only 20 years old, and already the world is full of Shawn Briley stories. You’re becoming the Flippy Hoffman of the ’90s.
What are you talking about?
It seems like anyone who spends more than 24 hours with you comes away with some kind of near-death experience.
Who said what?
Todd Chesser talked about t...