Encyclopedia of Surfing

Encyclopedia of Surfing
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The Latest:

  • New: Ken Bradshaw interview: "Skiing is ten times as dangerous as surfing big waves. Jogging on the sidwalk is more dangerous."
    Interviews (2021-03-03)
  • New: "The Nation of Ken," by Bruce Jenkins
    Blog (2021-03-01)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 2-28-2021: Brazil '78, Tom Wolfe, and a swift apology to Joe Quigg
    Sunday Joint (2021-02-28)
  • New: "The Bay," by Allston James, 1990: the end of a big-wave era
    Blog (2021-02-25)
  • New: "The Best Rate the Best": Top Waimea Surfers, 1990
    Contest (2021-02-25)
  • New: "Pump House Gang" Bonus Material
    Blog (2021-02-24)
  • New: 1965 article on the Mac Meda Destruction Company: "Sounds like a joke, started as a joke, thrived as a joke"
    Blog (2021-02-24)
  • Watch: "Nas Ondas do Surf" (1978), the first full-length Brazilian-made surf movie
    Video (2021-02-23)
  • New: Long Read: "The Pump House Gang," by Tom Wolfe
    Blog (2021-02-23)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 2-22-2021: Achtung, Tommy Zahn
    Sunday Joint (2021-02-21)
  • Watch: Mark Foo shakes his money-maker, rides the big ones
    Video (2021-02-20)
  • Updated: "The Divided Rulers of Waimea Bay," Foo-Bradshaw Profile by Matt Warshaw
    Blog (2021-02-17)
  • New: Mark Foo interview by Chris Carter: "I got famous so much so fast, everyone seemed to think it was undeserved. 'Why him and not me?'”
    Interviews (2021-02-17)
  • Updated: The Mark Foo Experience: More Hustling Means More Surfing
    Blog (2021-02-17)
  • New: "The Ultimate Thrill," Mark Foo profile by Matt Warshaw
    Blog (2021-02-16)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 2-14-2021: Duke and Harry and Great Olympic Flag Caper; Tulie Clark; Ilima Kalama
    Sunday Joint (2021-02-14)
  • New: Interview with California Surfing Pioneer Tulie Clark: "I learned to surf on my mom's old ironing board"
    Interviews (2021-02-12)
  • New: Darrick Doerner interview: "The ocean was made for pistons"
    Interviews (2021-02-11)
  • Watch: Darrick Doerner, Waimea, Peahi, and "Point Break" bonus feature
    Video (2021-02-10)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 2-7-2021: Surf Movie Hoaxes We Have Loved
    Sunday Joint (2021-02-07)
  • Watch: Peter Townend and the Rincon Hoax from "Fluid Drive"
    Video (2021-02-06)
  • Watch: Ilima Kalama at Trestles, Newport, HB Pier; Newly-Discovered Footage!
    Video (2021-02-04)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 1-31-2021: Mick Dooley, Sam Reid, Bob Purvey and the Ugly
    Above the Roar (2021-01-31)
  • New: 1978 SURFER Poll Awards: Shaun Tomson, Margo Oberg, Story and Pics
    Blog (2021-01-30)
  • New: "A mature man will never remain a hot-dogger," and other readings from the Book of Sam Reid
    Blog (2021-01-29)
  • New: Sam Reid: the Original Grumpy Old Surfer
    Blog (2021-01-27)
  • New: Bob Purvey's "The Ugly" Model? Best Noserider Ever? Specs, Video, Story
    Surfboard (2021-01-26)
  • Updated: Sam Reid, American Surfing Pioneer
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2021-01-26)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 1-24-2021: Jock Sutherland, and a Short Rant on Legends
    Sunday Joint (2021-01-24)
  • New: "Goodbye Sunshine Superman," Jock Sutherland profile by Matt Warshaw
    Blog (2021-01-23)
  • Updated: Linda Davoli
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2021-01-20)
  • Updated: Con Colburn, boardmaker and Keith Moon fashion muse
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2021-01-19)
  • New: "Ben" - Ben Aipa Profile by Bill Hamilton and Gerry Lopez
    Blog (2021-01-17)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 1-17-2021: Aloha and Farewell, Ben Aipa
    Sunday Joint (2021-01-17)
  • New: Ben Aipa - "Bertlemann was so far ahead of board design that I had to come up with something new"
    Interviews (2021-01-16)
  • Updated: Ben Aipa: 1942 - 2021
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2021-01-16)
  • New: U-Turn on the "Night Trip"? Jock Sutherland Answers Allan Weisbecker
    Blog (2021-01-15)
  • Watch: Mick Dooley, Trim-and-Turn Master
    Video (2021-01-11)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 1-19-2021: Bobby Brown; Massive Burn-Fest at '64 World Titles
    Sunday Joint (2021-01-10)
  • New: Burning Man '64: Dropping in on the World Championships at Manly Beach
    Blog (2021-01-09)
  • New: Mick Dooley interview: "I surfed Byron all by myself. I hated it, I wanted someone to talk to!"
    Interviews (2021-01-08)
  • Updated: Mick Dooley
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2021-01-07)
  • Watch: Mr. Smooth, Bobby Brown, 1964
    Video (2021-01-07)
  • New: "Bobby Brown, the Surfer-Trendsetter," 1967 tribute by Midget Farrelly
    Blog (2021-01-03)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 1-2-2021: Becky Benson, Nancy Nelson, other Girls Who Can't (HA!) Surf
    Sunday Joint (2021-01-03)
  • New: Oral History: the Quiet, Brilliant, Tragic Bobby Brown
    Blog (2021-01-01)
  • New: Full Report: 1975 WISA-Hang Ten Pro at Malibu
    Contest (2020-12-31)
  • Watch: Watch the 1975 WISA-Malibu Contest, from "Super Session"
    Video (2020-12-31)
  • Updated: Women's International Surfing Association (WISA)
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-12-31)
  • New: The Origins of Women's Pro Surfing, by Patti Paniccia
    Blog (2020-12-29)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 12-27-2020: Kevin Brennan
    Sunday Joint (2020-12-27)
  • New: Oral History: Remembering Aussie Teen-Terror Kevin "The Head" Brennan
    Blog (2020-12-26)
  • New: "Broads Who Ride Boards," Phil Jarratt's 1977 Chauvinism Magnum Opus
    Blog (2020-12-21)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 12-20-2020: Ho Show, Kelly Slater, Right Said Fred
    Sunday Joint (2020-12-20)
  • New: Ancient Hawaiian Legend: Bird Maiden Turns Cheating Surfer-Boyfriend to Stone
    Blog (2020-12-19)
  • Watch: Becky Benson, Bringer of Good Cheeer
    Video (2020-12-19)
  • Updated: Becky Benson, Makaha Champ at age 14
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-12-16)
  • Watch: Stuart Bedford-Brown's "Too Sexy" Remix
    Video (2020-12-15)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 12-13-2020: A Surfing Week Like No Other
    Sunday Joint (2020-12-13)
  • New: Ironman boardmaker Phil Becker: "It was always a neat job because I didn't have to drive to work."
    Interviews (2020-12-12)
  • New: Stuart Bedford-Brown, 1985: "You gotta get out of the pack as soon as possible."
    Interviews (2020-12-12)
  • New: Hot Surf Pulp! Cover Art and Synopsis for every "Operation Hang Ten" Book
    Blog (2020-12-11)
  • Updated: Phil Becker
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-12-11)
  • New: 1969: Extra-Pulpy Excerpt from "Hang Dead Hawaiian Style"
    Blog (2020-12-10)
  • Updated: Surf-Pulp Fiction: "Operation Hang Ten"
    Blog (2020-12-08)
  • New: 1967: "Pulps and Pot: Surfing Problems," SURFER Mag editorial
    Blog (2020-12-07)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 12-6-2020: Pam Burridge is Surfing's Mother Superior
    Blog (2020-12-06)
  • New: "Quiet Triumph," Pam Burridge Profile, by DC Green
    Blog (2020-12-04)
  • New: Pam Burridge interview: "I wanted to be a surfer, but had no interest in staying on the beach one second longer than I had to."
    Above the Roar (2020-12-03)
  • Watch: Pam Burridge is Surfing's Mother Superior
    Video (2020-12-01)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 11-30-2020: The Eternal Sunshine of Donald Takayama
    Blog (2020-11-30)
  • New: Henry Cheever, 1843: "The Sport is so Attractive and Full of Wild Excitement"
    Blog (2020-11-24)
  • New: The Legend of Kelea, "Joyful at the Thought of Surfing"
    Blog (2020-11-23)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 11-22-2020: 18,000 Thanks-Yous, Give or Take
    Blog (2020-11-22)
  • New: "In Trim: Donald Takayama," by Scott Hulet
    Blog (2020-11-21)
  • Watch: Wayne Bartholomew Plugs 2020 EOS Fundraiser
    Video (2020-11-18)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 11-8-2020: Mike Purpus vs Angie Reno, 1974 Playgirl Capers
    Blog (2020-11-08)
  • Watch: Donald Takayama at Velzyland, Oceanside, Malibu, More
    Video (2020-11-06)
  • Updated: Mike Purpus Took a Pie in the Face for our Sins
    Blog (2020-11-05)
  • Updated: Jackie Baxter
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-11-04)
  • Watch: Mike Purpus Surfed As Well As He Clowned
    Video (2020-11-04)
  • New: "I Always Dreamed Bigger Than My Friends." Mike Purpus interview
    Interviews (2020-10-30)
  • New: Mike Purpus vs Angie Reno: the Great Playgirl Wars of 1974
    Blog (2020-10-29)
  • Watch: Teen Dream Angie Reno at the Ranch, Pipe, Sunset
    Video (2020-10-27)
  • Updated: Eduardo Arena, King of the Amateur World Titles
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-10-26)
  • New: Sunday Joint: Felipe Pomar's Surf History Bun Fight
    Blog (2020-10-25)
  • New: 1846: "Tho' The Motion Is Swift, It Is Very Pleasant," Chester Lyman Surfs Waikiki
    Blog (2020-10-22)
  • New: 1849: "They Carried Their Feats in the Water to the Utmost Verge of Possibility" - SS Hill, Reporting from the Big Island
    Blog (2020-10-21)
  • New: 1868: Tsunami Destroys Big Island Towns, Creates Big-Wave Legend
    Blog (2020-10-20)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 10-18-2020: Terry Fitzgerald, Barry Bennett, the Surfie-Rocker Wars
    Blog (2020-10-19)
  • New: 1865, Bringing the Heat: "Such Riding of Man and Woman on the Same Wave Results in Sexual Indulgence"
    Blog (2020-10-18)
  • New: 1890: "I Was Initiated Into the Mysteries of Surf-Riding," Henry Carrington Bolton
    Blog (2020-10-17)
  • Watch: "All Quiet on the Surfie-Rocker Front," 1963 Newsreel
    Video (2020-10-16)
  • New: Ripped from the Headlines: the Surfie-Rocker Wars, 1962-'64
    Blog (2020-10-15)
  • New: "The Australian Surfboard Industry Could Not Have Survived Without Him." Barry Bennett's EOS Page is Up
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-10-14)
  • New: "Work Was Often Neglected For The Prosecution of This Sport," from Thrum's Annual, 1896
    Blog (2020-10-13)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 10-11-2020: Gidget, "Ninth Wave," Herman Melville
    Blog (2020-10-12)
  • New: 1957: "I felt so jazzed up I could have yelled!" Excerpt from Gidget, by Frederick Kohner
    Blog (2020-10-11)
  • New: 1917, Surf Lessons from the Duke: "O, The Wild Joy Of It!"
    Blog (2020-10-10)
  • New: "Jock's Night Trip," by Allan Weisbecker. Big Waves, LSD, Helicopters
    Blog (2020-10-09)
  • New: Kookslams, 1867: "A Great Sea Caught Me," by James Chalmers
    Blog (2020-10-09)
  • New: 1957: "Maybe I Was Just a Woman in Love With a Surfboard," Excerpt from Gidget, by Fredrick Kohner
    Blog (2020-10-08)
  • Updated: Will the Real Moondoggie Please Step Forward?
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-10-08)
  • New: Surfing-Sexual Psychodrama: Excerpt from "The Ninth Wave," by Eugene Burdick
    Blog (2020-10-07)
  • New: 1849: "Rare Sport at Ohonoo," Excerpt From "Mardi," by Herman Melville
    Blog (2020-10-06)
  • New: Big-Wave Thrills: Excerpt from "A Native Son of the Golden West," by James Houston
    Blog (2020-10-05)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 10-4-2020: RIP SURFER MAGAZINE
    Blog (2020-10-04)
  • New: "Accelerator: the Terry Fitzgerald Story," by Phil Jarrratt
    Blog (2020-10-02)
  • Watch: Terry Fitzgerald, the Sultan of Speed, Pedal to the Metal
    Video (2020-10-01)
  • New: 1964: Hang Ten Surfwear in a "Mad Race to Keep up with Orders"
    Blog (2020-09-25)
  • New: Hang Ten - The Original Department Store Surf Brand
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-09-24)
  • New: Hang Ten cofounder Duke Boyd: "For three or four years, I couldn’t design anything that was not successful. Everything I did worked!
    Above the Roar (2020-09-24)
  • Watch: A Three-Minute Salute to Sofia Mulanovich
    Video (2020-09-23)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 9-20-2020: Jack Murphy, Montgomery Burns, Jeffreys Bay, Derek Hynd
    Blog (2020-09-20)
  • New: Jack Murphy, aka "Murph the Surf"
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-09-19)
  • Watch: 1984 Country Feeling Classic, Jeffreys Bay
    Video (2020-09-14)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 9-13-2020: George Freeth and Mae West, Together At Last
    Blog (2020-09-13)
  • New: George Freeth's Life and Times in Newprint: 1883 - 1919
    Blog (2020-09-12)
  • New: Surf Lessons from George Freeth, 1912: "It Requires Unlimited Nerve"
    Blog (2020-09-11)
  • New: Surf Pioneer George Freeth: Surf Hero or Law-Breaking Lifeguard-Brawing Stowaway?
    Blog (2020-09-09)
  • New: George Freeth: "They Hailed Me as the Reviver"
    Blog (2020-09-08)
  • Watch: Tommy Zahn, Blond Bombshell from the 'Bu
    Video (2020-09-07)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 9-6-2020: "Hawaii," Gene Hackman, Brenden Margieson
    Blog (2020-09-06)
  • New: Tom Zahn interview: "Surfing, paddling, sailing—that was my thing. Everything else in life didn’t interest me much."
    Above the Roar (2020-09-05)
  • New: Tom Zahn's 1953 Nine-Hour 40-Mile Paddle from Molokai to Oahu
    Blog (2020-09-04)
  • Watch: Brenden Margiesen: 3.5 Minutes of Good Cheer and Incredible Surfing
    Video (2020-09-03)
  • New: Brenden Margieson interview: "I don’t walk around thinking that I’m the best bloody free surfer in the world, you know"
    Above the Roar (2020-09-02)
  • New: "A Royal Sport," Jack London's Operatic Ode to Surfing
    Blog (2020-08-29)
  • New: Charmian London, Surf-Lusty like Husband Jack, Takes to the Waikiki Waves
    Blog (2020-08-27)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 8-23-2020: Diana Ross, Mike Doyle, Mike Hynson, and Reno Abellira
    Blog (2020-08-23)
  • New: "The Shoe," by Newport Paipo: Kneeboard or Surfboard? Your Choice
    Surfboard (2020-08-22)
  • New: Reverend William Ellis, 1823: "The Only Circumstances That Mar Their Pleasure is the Approach of a Shark"
    Blog (2020-08-21)
  • Watch: Reno Abellira Rides His Flip-Tip "Disc" in Victoria, 1970
    Video (2020-08-20)
  • New: The Weber Performer: All-Time Surfboard Model Champ?
    Surfboard (2020-08-19)
  • Watch: Weber Performer '67 - Dewey and Tabeling Hit the Contest Circuit
    Video (2020-08-19)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 8-16-2020: Peter Crawford and St. Christopher
    Blog (2020-08-16)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 8-9-2020: Rumble at the Ranch, Malibu '65, Why We Love Kooks
    Blog (2020-08-09)
  • New: Peter Crawford's "Slab" Kneeboard: as Homely as it was High-Performance
    Surfboard (2020-08-07)
  • New: "Infinite Games: the Final Days of Peter Crawford," by DC Green
    Blog (2020-08-06)
  • New: Missionary in Paradise: Excerpts from Hiram Bingham's Journals, 1820 and 1821
    Blog (2020-08-06)
  • Watch: Peter Crawford is Kneeboarding's High-Performance Pixie
    Video (2020-08-04)
  • New: "Surfing and the Olympics," by Steve Pezman
    Blog (2020-08-02)
  • New: Captain Bligh in Tahiti. Before the Mutiny, there was Surfing
    Blog (2020-07-30)
  • Updated: Chelsea Georgeson, the Forgotten Champ
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-07-29)
  • New: Chelsea Georgeson, Smooth Operator
    Video (2020-07-28)
  • Watch: Malibu Surf Trip 1965: Encino to First Point
    Video (2020-07-24)
  • Watch: "Waves to Freedom," starring Mark Cunningham
    Video (2020-07-23)
  • New: Dept of Linguistics: We Should Have Stuck with "Sharkboards"!
    Blog (2020-07-21)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 7-19-2020: Remembering Derek Ho
    Blog (2020-07-20)
  • Watch: Derek Ho Surfed like a Perfectly Thrown Dagger
    Video (2020-07-19)
  • New: "Do The Right Thing," Derek Ho Profile By Steve Barilotti
    Blog (2020-07-18)
  • New: "Hey Brudda, See You In The Top 16!" Derek and Michael Ho Profile
    Blog (2020-07-18)
  • New: "Remember when those guys pulled out of the contest at Waimea, ’cause they were scared shitless? I’d like to see more of that." Derek Ho Interview
    Above the Roar (2020-07-18)
  • New: Steve Bigler Wins 1966 Malibu Invitational: Story, Pics, Video
    Contest (2020-07-17)
  • Watch: Sun's Out, Guns Out: 1965 "War" at Malibu, with Miki Dora and Johnny Fain
    Video (2020-07-16)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 7-12-2020: Michael Tomson's Oversized Life and Times
    Blog (2020-07-13)
  • New: Surfin' 1777: "The Most Supreme Pleasure"
    Blog (2020-07-13)
  • New: "The Insatiable Cravings of Michael Tomson," by Phil Jarratt
    Blog (2020-07-11)
  • Watch: Michael Tomson at Huge Pipe and More
    Video (2020-07-10)
  • New: Michael Tomson interview (1977)
    Above the Roar (2020-07-09)
  • New: Michael Tomson interview (1996)
    Above the Roar (2020-07-09)
  • New: Kit Horn, Stealth Big-Wave Charger
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-07-08)
  • New: Kealoha Kaio as remembered by Downing, Pomar, Noll, others
    Blog (2020-07-07)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 5-7-2020: Mark Cunningham, 4th of July Hijinks, and Chocolate-Covered Macadamia Nuts
    Blog (2020-07-05)
  • New: Point Panic, 1980; Bodysurfing Heaven
    Video (2020-07-04)
  • New: Mark Cunningham interview: "My long, skinny, gangly body just fit at Pipeline."
    Above the Roar (2020-07-02)
  • New: Mark Cunningham, "The Human Pintail," Profiled by Bruce Jenkins
    Blog (2020-07-01)
  • New: Mark Cunningham has Glided into EOS
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-06-30)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 6-28-2020: Surf Ranch - Who Pimped in Best? Tomson, Richards, Carroll, Slater, and More
    Blog (2020-06-28)
  • New: Carwyn Williams: "My parents thought I'd grow out of surfing, they really did."
    Above the Roar (2020-06-26)
  • New: Carwyn Williams, the Man from Mumbles
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-06-25)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 6-21-2020: Up in Smoke with the Incredible Patterson Brothers
    Blog (2020-06-21)
  • New: Bobby Patterson Hot-Foots to Victory in the '64 Malibu Invitational
    Contest (2020-06-18)
  • New: Joey Cabell Wins 1963 Malibu Invitational: Story and Pix
    Contest (2020-06-18)
  • Watch: Bobby "Flea" Patterson, Short and Sweet and Lightning-Fast Feet
    Video (2020-06-17)
  • New: Sunday Joint, 6-14-2020: Nat Young, Mick Fanning, Chuck Klosterman, Chuck Berry
    Blog (2020-06-15)
  • New: Really REALLY Long Read: "Animal Tracks," Nat Young Profile by Drew Kampion
    Blog (2020-06-12)
  • Watch: Nat Young Six-Minute Supercut Video
    Video (2020-06-08)
  • New: Sunday Joint: Bude River Madness, Bobby Owens, Bo Diddley
    Blog (2020-06-07)
  • New: The Sunday Joint: "Malibu U," Jim Morrison, Surfing Dogs
    Blog (2020-05-31)
  • Watch: "Malibu U" full 1967 episode: Ricky Nelson, Marvin Gaye, Dionne Warwick, More
    Video (2020-05-28)
  • Updated: Jim Morrison Didn't Like the "Malibu U" TV Show, But He (Kind Of) Appeared On It Anyway
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-05-26)
  • New: Long Read: "Bobby Owens, the Quiet Competitor," by Paul Holmes
    Blog (2020-05-22)
  • New: Bobby Owens Interview: "It's really hard for me to be more flamboyant than I am."
    Above the Roar (2020-05-21)
  • Watch: Bobby Owens: the Four-Minute Flow-State Edit
    Video (2020-05-21)
  • New: Fred Hemmings on Creating the Pipe Masters: "I wanted to develop something for the average schmuck in Middle America!"
    Blog (2020-05-17)
  • New: "Before the Herd," Mike Armstrong Profile by Kevin O'Sullivan
    Blog (2020-05-14)
  • Watch: 1979 Pipe Masters Final - Full Length
    Video (2020-05-12)
  • Watch: Long-Lost Ted Deerhurst Sequence from "Storm Riders"
    Video (2020-05-12)
  • New: Larry Blairs Wins '78 Pipe Masters - His FIRST Contest in Hawaii!
    Contest (2020-05-11)
  • New: The Sunday Joint: Hot Curl, Little Richard, the Cardiff Kook, More
    Blog (2020-05-10)
  • New: "Hot Curl Surfboards: the Bottom Line," by Mark Fragale
    Blog (2020-05-09)
  • New: Raise Your Beer to Michael Dormer and Hot Curl, the Michelangelo and David of Surfing
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-05-07)
  • New: The Hot Curl Surfboard
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-05-05)
  • New: "Father, Son, Holy Spirit," Pat Curren Profile by Bruce Jenkins
    Blog (2020-05-03)
  • New: Tom Curren in Above the Roar: "I was obsessed with Occy. I was caught up in his whole thing."
    Above the Roar (2020-05-01)
  • New: "The Private World of Tom Curren," 1985 SURFER Profile by Matt George
    Blog (2020-04-30)
  • New: Full-Length 1985 Tom Curren Profile in Sports Illustrated
    Blog (2020-04-30)
  • Watch: Seven-Minute Tom Curren Supercut
    Video (2020-04-29)
  • New: Russell Beats Lopez in '76 Pipe Masters; Article and Pix
    Contest (2020-04-24)
  • New: 1973 Pipe Masters: Lopez Repeats, Armstrong Runner-Up for Third Year in a Row; Story and Pix
    Contest (2020-04-23)
  • New: 1975 Pipe Masters: "It was a nightmare. It was life and death out there," Rory Russell
    Contest (2020-04-23)
  • New: 1972 Pipeline Masters: Lopez 1st, Armstrom 2nd, Bertlemann 3rd; Story and Pix
    Contest (2020-04-22)
  • New: Hakman Wins First Pipeline Masters: Story and Pix
    Contest (2020-04-22)
  • Watch: Owl Chapman is a True Surfing Original
    Video (2020-04-21)
  • New: The Sunday Joint: Alcohol, Drugs, Nicky Wood, the Isley Brothers
    Blog (2020-04-19)
  • New: Owl Chapman: "Sunset Beach is on its own trip. It’s Sunset and you are you, and you can’t lay your trip on it."
    Above the Roar (2020-04-18)
  • Watch: Kim Mearig and Ernie Isley Soar Together on "Who's That Lady
    Video (2020-04-14)
  • New: The Sunday Joint: SURFER Poll, Three Dog Night, Margo Godfrey
    Blog (2020-04-12)
  • New: "The Phantom," Nicky Wood Profile by Derek Hynd
    Blog (2020-04-10)
  • New: Nicky Wood interview - "If you take a lot of drugs it fuckin' disorganizes you."
    Above the Roar (2020-04-10)
  • New: "Nicky Wood's Smoke-Filled Melancholy"
    Blog (2020-04-09)
  • Watch: Nicky Wood Footage is Hard to Find, But Here's Three-and-a-Half Minutes of the Best
    Video (2020-04-07)
  • New: The Sunday Joint: COVID-19, Miki Dora, Mitch Thorson
    Blog (2020-04-05)
  • New: Hoffman, Doyle, Repeat Winners in 1965 SURFER Poll. Full Results, Plus Party Pix
    Blog (2020-04-04)
  • New: Nuuhiwa, Hoffman win 1966 SURFER Poll. Report, Results, Pix
    Contest (2020-04-04)
  • New: Sutherland and Godfrey Win 1969 SURFER Poll. Report, Results, Pix
    Contest (2020-04-04)
  • New: Mitch Thorson Profile, by Nick Carroll. "Aussies think they’re so much better than anyone else that they walk around like they’re God."
    Blog (2020-04-02)
  • New: "Booby" Mystery . . . Solved! How James Jones Got His Humbling Nickname
    Blog (2020-04-01)
  • Watch: Mitch Thorson is Your One-Man Department of Water and Power
    Video (2020-03-31)
  • New: 1960s Duke Contest Power Rankings - Doyle #1
    Blog (2020-03-28)
  • New: 1970s Duke Contest Power Rankings - Hakman #1
    Blog (2020-03-28)
  • New: 1980s Duke Contest Power Rankings - Mike Ho #1
    Blog (2020-03-28)
  • New: 1980 Duke - Warren Wins Waimea!
    Contest (2020-03-27)
  • New: One Born Every Minute Dept: "Winner Take All - Mickey Dora's Challenge"
    Blog (2020-03-26)
  • Watch: James Jones, Surfing's Biggest Little Big Man, Had The North Shore Wrapped Around His Tiny Fingers
    Video (2020-03-25)
  • New: Phil Edwards Wins 1963 SURFER Poll Awards; Full Results, Story, Pix
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-03-25)
  • New: "You need to have some sort of force in your—it could be anything. For me, it’s surfing." James Jones Interview
    Above the Roar (2020-03-24)
  • New: 1967 SURFER Poll Results: Corky and Joyce on Top!
    Contest (2020-03-21)
  • New: Mark Richards Wins '79 Duke On Way To Four-Year Surf-World Domination
    Contest (2020-03-20)
  • New: Bertlemann Wins '74 Duke; Hakman Injured in Horse Accident
    Contest (2020-03-19)
  • New: Hawaiians Sweep 1977 Duke; Eddie Aikau Wins
    Contest (2020-03-19)
  • New: Hawaiians Sweep Top Spots in '76 Duke; Booby Jones Wins
    Contest (2020-03-19)
  • New: Pops Aikau to Michael Ho Before '78 Duke Finals: "Go Out And Win it For Eddie." He did.
    Contest (2020-03-19)
  • Watch: "Extra - An EOS Tribute to Plus-Size Surfers"
    Video (2020-03-18)
  • New: Cairns Wins '75 Duke Over M. Ho at Waimea Bay
    Contest (2020-03-17)
  • New: Clyde Aikau Wins '73 at Waimea Bay; Eddie Makes the Final
    Contest (2020-03-13)
  • New: 1971 Duke Classic: Jeff Hakman Wins His Third Duke Title; Hamilton a Close Second
    Contest (2020-03-12)
  • New: 1972 Duke: Booby Jones by a Whisker over Jeff Hakman at Big Perfect Sunset Beach
    Contest (2020-03-12)
  • New: Boards, Bones, and Bombs on Christmas Island with Parmenter, Sunn, Chouinard, and Sam George
    Blog (2020-03-11)
  • New: Nick Carroll: "Parmenter doesn’t fit in a Southern California surfing scene where a tattoo and a single-digit IQ are positive career moves."
    Blog (2020-03-11)
  • New: Dave Parmenter Lights Up the Central Coast, Stubbies Comp, and Natividad
    Video (2020-03-10)
  • New: Jeff Hakman Reports on his Big Win at 1970 Duke
    Contest (2020-03-09)
  • New: Time Machine: Tracks Magazine's 1974 Awards
    Blog (2020-03-07)
  • New: Linda Benson Dazzles in Vintage GAF View-Master Reel!
    Blog (2020-03-06)
  • Watch: Rob Bain is the Feel-Good Surfer of the Week
    Video (2020-03-03)
  • Watch: Ron Drummond is Thrilling and Dangerous at Dana Point
    Video (2020-03-01)
  • New: Ron Drummond interview: "It was an earthquake wave, and I rode it all the way in till I skidded up on the beach."
    Blog (2020-02-28)
  • New: Canoe Surfer Ron Drummond Tries to Jump-Start the Artificial Surfing Reef
    Blog (2020-02-27)
  • Watch: Skip Frye of San Diego is Half-Man, Half-Pelican
    Video (2020-02-24)
  • New: The '68 Duke Contest Goes Pro, and Surfers Begin to Sniff a World Tour
    Blog (2020-02-22)
  • New: Joey Cabell Wins '69 Duke; Full Coverage and Pix
    Contest (2020-02-21)
  • Watch: Jock Wins '67 Duke: Full-Length TV Presentation
    Video (2020-02-20)
  • Watch: Mike Doyle Wins '68 Duke; Full-Length "Wide World of Sports" Coverage
    Video (2020-02-18)
  • Watch: Ricky Grigg Wins '66 Duke; Full-Length "Wide World of Sports" Presentation
    Video (2020-02-18)
  • New: Jodie Cooper Interview: "It’s so Neanderthal. Surfing has a long way to go."
    Above the Roar (2020-02-14)
  • Watch: Jodie Cooper is Tough as Nails, Cheerful as Christmas
    Video (2020-02-13)
  • New: The East Coast Surfing Hall of Fame
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-02-12)
  • Watch: Hakman Wins '65 Duke: Full-Length CBS Presentation
    Video (2020-02-08)
  • Watch: Rizal Tanjung is Balinese Fire and Flow
    Video (2020-02-06)
  • New: Rizal Tanjung, In His Own Words
    Above the Roar (2020-02-06)
  • Watch: Severn Bore 1967: You'll Feel This One Right in the John Thomas
    Video (2020-02-04)
  • New: Postmortem: the Makaha International, 1953 - 1974
    Blog (2020-02-02)
  • Watch: Baby Larry Bertlemann Shreds 1970 Makaha Contest in Original "Five Summer Stories"
    Video (2020-02-01)
  • New: Read All About It! Gerry Lopez, Cub Reporter for the Honolulu Advertiser
    Blog (2020-02-01)
  • New: Ho, Blears, Downing Clean Up at '72 Makaha
    Contest (2020-01-31)
  • New: Strauch and Sunn Take 1969 Makaha International; George and Keone Downing Both Make Finals
    Contest (2020-01-31)
  • Watch: Hemmings and Young Battle it Out at '66 Makaha!
    Video (2020-01-30)
  • New: Joey Cabell, Martha Sunn, Reno Abellira Take Out '67 Makaha
    Contest (2020-01-30)
  • New: Margo, Cabell, and 15-Year-Old Keone Downing Win '68 Makaha
    Contest (2020-01-30)
  • New: Makaha '65: Nancy Nelson and George Downing BOTH Win Their Third Makaha Titles
    Contest (2020-01-28)
  • New: Mike Doyle on the Hard Math and Even Harder Politics of Makaha
    Blog (2020-01-28)
  • New: Midget, Nancy Nelson Take 1962 Makaha Champs: Pix, Vid, Results, More
    Contest (2020-01-27)
  • Watch: Point Surf '62! Big Stuff Hits the Makaha International, and John Severson Gets it on Film
    Video (2020-01-27)
  • New: Downing and Anona Naone Take Out '61 Makaha. Pix, Results, Full Report
    Contest (2020-01-26)
  • New: Time Machine: Read The Makaha Surf Club's Midcentury Newsletters
    Blog (2020-01-25)
  • New: The Mighty Waikiki Surf Club: "All Creeds and Colors Welcome"
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2020-01-24)
  • New: John Lind and the Origins of the Makaha Championships
    Blog (2020-01-21)
  • New: Buffalo K Takes 1960 Makaha International: Full Report and Pix
    Contest (2020-01-20)
  • Watch: Never-Before-Seen Super-8 Footage of the '59 Makaha Contest
    Video (2020-01-19)
  • Watch: 1958 Makaha Contest Thrills and Spills, in Living Color!
    Video (2020-01-17)
  • New: Froiseth and Benson Take 1959 Makaha Contest: Pix, Video, More
    Contest (2020-01-17)
  • New: Jamma Keanu and Little Vicky Heldreich Are Surprise Winners In 1957 Makaha Contest
    Contest (2020-01-16)
  • New: Peter Cole and Marge Calhoun Dominate 1958 Makaha Contest: Full Report, Pix, Video
    Contest (2020-01-16)
  • New: 1956 Makaha Contest: Ethel Kukea Makes it Two in a Row
    Contest (2020-01-15)
  • New: 1955 Makaha Contest: Results, Articles, Pix, Video
    Contest (2020-01-14)
  • New: George Downing Wins 1954 Makaha Contest: Article, Pix, Full Results
    Contest (2020-01-13)
  • Watch: Joey Cabell at Rincon, Makaha, Mauritius and More
    Video (2020-01-11)
  • New: Joey Cabell's "White Ghost": Fastest Gun in the West
    Surfboard (2020-01-10)
  • New: Munoz, Doyle, Young talk about Joey Cabell
    Blog (2020-01-10)
  • New: Joey Cabell Interview: "Surfing for me was like bullfighting. How close can you come to the horns?"
    Above the Roar (2020-01-09)
  • Watch: Keone Downing Goes from Teen Grom in '70 World Titles to Giant-Killer at '90 Eddie
    Video (2020-01-07)
  • New: Paul Neilsen: "If you’re doing what you love and can make money off it, then better still!"
    Above the Roar (2019-12-31)
  • Watch: Four Minutes Of Joy With Gold Coast Kingpin Paul Neilsen
    Video (2019-12-28)
  • New: Shaun Tomson Wins 1975 Hang Ten American Pro
    Contest (2019-12-26)
  • New: Swing And A Miss! Did The Pro Tour Almost Launch in 1975?
    Blog (2019-12-26)
  • New: Jeff Hakman wins 1972 Hang Ten; Full Report by Drew Kampion
    Contest (2019-12-25)
  • Watch: 1974 Hang Ten American Pro, from "Super Session"
    Video (2019-12-24)
  • New: Jeff Hakman Wins 1974 Hang Ten American Pro
    Contest (2019-12-24)
  • New: Fail Files: The Objective Scoring System
    Blog (2019-12-23)
  • New: Charlie Bunger, A New York Original
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-12-21)
  • New: John Hannon is the Father of New York Surfing
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-12-20)
  • New: Davey Smith: "Last summer I put 30,000 miles on my car!"
    Above the Roar (2019-12-19)
  • New: John Hannon: "Like all good surfboard builders, I went out to my mother’s garage and got busy!"
    Above the Roar (2019-12-19)
  • New: Watch the Fast and Futuristic Davey Smith
    Video (2019-12-18)
  • New: When The Weird Turn Pro: Readings From "The Surfer's Almanac," by Gary Filosa
    Blog (2019-12-14)
  • New: The Rise And Fall of Gary Filosa
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-12-13)
  • New: Gail Couper: "There are too many spectators in the world—with all sports, not just surfing."
    Above the Roar (2019-12-11)
  • New: Midget Farrelly Stringerless: Best OG Longboard Ever Made?
    Surfboard (2019-12-10)
  • New: The Indestructible Gail Couper, 10x Bells Winner
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-12-10)
  • New: Buttons K and Mark Liddell Interviewed by Chris Carter
    Above the Roar (2019-12-06)
  • Watch: Mark Liddell In "Everyone's a Winner"
    Video (2019-12-06)
  • New: OG New Jersey Boss Dan Heritage
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-12-05)
  • New: Full 30-Ounce Matt Hoy Profile by Derek Rielly
    Blog (2019-12-04)
  • New: Matt Hoy: "I've Got Nothing To Be Ashamed Of. Except My Man-Boobs."
    Above the Roar (2019-12-03)
  • New: Matt Hoy: Drinking Beer And Throwing Hammers
    Video (2019-12-02)
  • New: Hemmings Takes '64 Makaha Titles! Full Report by Fred Van Dyke
    Contest (2019-11-30)
  • New: Florida Man Takes on World Champ! Valluzzi vs Townend at Sebastian Inlet
    Blog (2019-11-21)
  • Watch: Ten Red-Hot Minutes From The 1977 Florida Pro. Crawford vs Bugs in Final!
    Video (2019-11-20)
  • New: Bruce Valluzzi Reports from the 1977 Florida Pro
    Contest (2019-11-19)
  • New: Springsteen: "The Only Things I Cared About Were Girls, Cars and Surfing"
    Blog (2019-11-16)
  • New: "Survivor: the Dean Randazzo Story," by Kimball Taylor
    Blog (2019-11-15)
  • Watch: Dean Randazzo Slays Huge Honolua, and More
    Video (2019-11-14)
  • New: Full-Length Dean Randazzo Interview
    Above the Roar (2019-11-14)
  • Updated: Dean Randazzo: the Jersey Devil
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-11-13)
  • New: Fundraiser Nets 27K! Thank You EOS Supporters!
    Blog (2019-11-12)
  • Watch: 1990 Quiksilver-Eddie, Uncut and Horrifying
    Video (2019-11-06)
  • New: Brock Little Reports From the 1990 Quiksilver-Eddie
    Contest (2019-11-06)
  • Watch: 1984 Quiksilver-Eddie. The One Nobody Talks About!
    Video (2019-11-05)
  • Watch: 1986 Quiksilver / Eddie - 40-minute director's cut!
    Video (2019-11-05)
  • New: Denton Miyamura Wins '84 Eddie In Slightly Overhead Waves
    Contest (2019-11-05)
  • New: "Chubby" by Kimo Hollinger. Aloha by the Ton
    Blog (2019-11-03)
  • New: Level Up: The 2019 EOS Fundraiser is ON!
    Blog (2019-10-31)
  • New: Nat Young Remembers Mr. Smooth, Russell Hughes
    Blog (2019-10-31)
  • New: Tom Blake Wins 1928 Titles! Results and Reporting
    Contest (2019-10-28)
  • New: Tom Curren's Black Beauty: Specs, Comments, Pix, Video
    Surfboard (2019-10-27)
  • New: John Witzig Reports From Bells on 1967 Aussie National Titles
    Contest (2019-10-26)
  • New: 1938 National Surfing and Paddleboard Championships, Long Beach, CA
    Contest (2019-10-25)
  • Watch: Tom Curren and Black Beauty are 1986 Perfection
    Video (2019-10-25)
  • New: 1986 Stubbies Pro International, Full Coverage from Surfing Mag
    Contest (2019-10-24)
  • Watch: 1986 Stubbies Pro International, Oceanside (59 Minutes Worth!)
    Video (2019-10-23)
  • Watch: 2019 EOS Fundraiser Promo (Chubby Version)
    Video (2019-10-23)
  • Watch: 2019 EOS Fundraiser Promo (Long Version)
    Video (2019-10-22)
  • New: Santa Cruz '68: Dale Dobson Just Says "No" To The Shortboard Revolution
    Blog (2019-10-17)
  • Watch: Dale Dobson: Long, Short, And Back Up Again
    Video (2019-10-15)
  • Updated: Dale Dobson: San Diego Ironman
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-10-14)
  • New: Hide and Seek: the Joey Hamasaki Archive
    Blog (2019-10-11)
  • Watch: "Balsa Bill" Yerkes on "What's My Line?" (1966)
    Video (2019-10-10)
  • New: Joey Hamasaki interview
    Above the Roar (2019-10-09)
  • Watch: Joey Hamasaki was the Steph Gilmore of 1967
    Video (2019-10-08)
  • New: Surfing's Most Famous Nazi Salute, Explained
    Blog (2019-10-05)
  • New: "Linda Benson: the Pace-Setter" - Profile by Paul Holmes
    Blog (2019-10-04)
  • New: Linda Benson: "I was homecoming queen!"
    Above the Roar (2019-10-03)
  • New: "Smokin' Joe: A Tale of Triumph and Tragegy," by Nick Carroll
    Blog (2019-10-02)
  • Watch: Joe Engel at Burleigh, Bells, Nias, More
    Video (2019-10-02)
  • Updated: Joe Engel
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-10-01)
  • New: Failure to Launch: Shortboards Before the Shortboard Revolution
    Blog (2019-09-28)
  • Watch: Jim Foley, Santa Cruz, 1959
    Video (2019-09-26)
  • New: New Zealand '59, And The Accidental Shortboard Movement
    Blog (2019-09-23)
  • New: "Notes From The Deep End": Reporting from the 1985 Allentown Wavepool Fiasco
    Blog (2019-09-21)
  • New: Wavepool 1911: "A Miniature Indoor Ocean"
    Blog (2019-09-19)
  • Watch: Shawn Briley has More Bounce to the Ounce
    Video (2019-09-18)
  • New: Shawn Briley: "I say it’s a gift. Some people say it’s a curse."
    Above the Roar (2019-09-16)
  • Watch: Hector Velarde Will Make Your Heart Pound And Your Eyes Bulge
    Video (2019-09-14)
  • New: Bob Pike Profile in "Teenagers' Weekly" (1962)
    Blog (2019-09-11)
  • Watch: Bob Pike of Australia: Toughest Man in Surfing?
    Video (2019-09-09)
  • New: Brad McCaul: "I'm always stoked!"
    Above the Roar (2019-09-06)
  • Watch: Brad McCaul at JBay, Malibu, Bells, more
    Video (2019-09-05)
  • New: Eddie Albert takes a break from "Green Acres" to wax poetic about surfing!
    Blog (2019-09-04)
  • Watch: 1970 Torquay Surf Scene, as seen on "Weekend Magazine"
    Video (2019-09-03)
  • New: 1968 World Championships—an Oral History
    Blog (2019-08-30)
  • New: "1968 World Championships [Whatever That Means]" by Dick Graham and Duke Boyd
    Blog (2019-08-29)
  • Watch: 1968 World Championships: 33 HQ Minutes!
    Video (2019-08-27)
  • Updated: George Thompson
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-08-27)
  • New: "Riding the Surf in Hawaii," by Alexander Hume Ford (1909)
    Blog (2019-08-24)
  • New: "Why Do I Feel Like Stomping the Haole?"
    Blog (2019-08-24)
  • Updated: Jack London
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-08-23)
  • New: Marvin Foster was the Hottest Coolest Mess in Surfing
    Blog (2019-08-20)
  • Updated: South Africa's George Thomopolous
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-08-19)
  • Watch: Marvin Foster
    Video (2019-08-16)
  • Updated: Peterson Rosa
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-08-14)
  • Watch: Peterson Rosa Goes Full Bronco
    Video (2019-08-13)
  • New: Weber vs Velzy! Is That a Knife In Your Pocket, Or Are You Just Happy To See Me?
    Blog (2019-08-10)
  • Watch: Dewey Weber in Living Color!
    Video (2019-08-09)
  • New: "Makaha is the Worst!" Old-School Rant by Dewey Weber
    Blog (2019-08-06)
  • New: Dewey Weber
    Above the Roar (2019-08-05)
  • New: "I've Just Got My Head Above Water," Shane Powell Profile by Nick Carroll
    Blog (2019-08-04)
  • Watch: Shane Powell
    Video (2019-08-03)
  • New: "Creature of the Night," Shane Powell Profile by Andrew Farrell
    Blog (2019-08-01)
  • Updated: Dan Merkel
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-07-25)
  • New: "The End of History" - HOS' Final Chapter
    History of Surfing (2019-07-23)
  • New: "Surf in a Box" - The Wavepool Gets Serious
    History of Surfing (2019-07-22)
  • New: "Hide in Plain Sight" - Mark Martinson profile by Drew Kampion
    Blog (2019-07-21)
  • Watch: Mark Martinson
    Video (2019-07-19)
  • Watch: Duke K. in Long-Lost Comedy Short!
    Blog (2019-07-13)
  • New: Dave Sweet interview, by Steve Pezman
    Above the Roar (2019-07-11)
  • Watch: "Surf Contest: Hermosa Beach, 1970"
    Video (2019-07-10)
  • New: Western Surfing Association (WSA)
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-07-09)
  • New: John Bradbury
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-07-08)
  • New: Aussie shaping legend Nev Hyman
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-07-06)
  • Watch: "This Is Not Goodbye My Darling" - Ode to the Kickout
    Video (2019-07-04)
  • New: "Nature Gets a Makeover"
    History of Surfing (2019-07-01)
  • New: "POTO: VETEA DAVID," BY NICK CARROLL
    Blog (2019-06-30)
  • Watch: Vetea David
    Video (2019-06-29)
  • Updated: Vetea David
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-06-28)
  • New: "A Dance With the Past"
    History of Surfing (2019-06-24)
  • New: Jax Beach '64: The Coppers Win This One!
    Blog (2019-06-22)
  • New: "My Names is Keala Kennelly," by Matt George
    Blog (2019-06-21)
  • Watch: Keala Kennelly
    Video (2019-06-20)
  • New: "The Beast and Beyond"
    History of Surfing (2019-06-17)
  • New: Rochelle Ballard
    Above the Roar (2019-06-14)
  • Watch: Rochelle Ballard
    Video (2019-06-13)
  • New: "Andy Irons' Poetic Fury"
    History of Surfing (2019-06-10)
  • Watch: Rolf Aurness
    Video (2019-06-07)
  • New: Rolf Aurness Profile by Drew Kampion
    Blog (2019-06-05)
  • Watch: 1970 World Championships
    Video (2019-06-04)
  • New: Rolf Aurness Interview
    Above the Roar (2019-06-03)
  • New: 1970 World Championships, by Geoff Luton
    Blog (2019-06-01)
  • New: "Morocco: Surf Madness," by Bruce Valluzzi
    Blog (2019-05-30)
  • Watch: Bruce Valluzzi
    Video (2019-05-29)
  • New: Bruce Valluzzi
    Above the Roar (2019-05-28)
  • Watch: Flavio Padaratz
    Video (2019-05-27)
  • New: Thirty is the New Twenty
    History of Surfing (2019-05-27)
  • Watch: Robert August
    Video (2019-05-25)
  • New: An Illustrated History of the Hollywood Surf Guru
    Blog (2019-05-23)
  • New: Terry Richardson
    Above the Roar (2019-05-14)
  • Watch: Terry Richardson
    Video (2019-05-13)
  • Watch: Bob Cooper
    Video (2019-05-07)
  • New: Searching for the Perfect Phrase
    History of Surfing (2019-05-03)
  • New: Sunny Garcia
    Video (2019-05-02)
  • Updated: Joe Roland
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-04-28)
  • New: Joe Roland
    Video (2019-04-28)
  • Watch: Lance Carson
    Video (2019-04-26)
  • New: Gerry Lopez on Stanley "Savage" Park
    Blog (2019-04-25)
  • Watch: Ben Aipa
    Video (2019-04-23)
  • New: "Last Call For Print Media"
    History of Surfing (2019-04-22)
  • New: "Laird Hamilton: Last Man Standing," by Dan Duane
    Blog (2019-04-10)
  • New: Tahitian Scream
    History of Surfing (2019-04-10)
  • New: "Big-Wave Danger: a Hoax!" by Peter Van Dyke
    Blog (2019-04-09)
  • New: Laird Means Lord
    History of Surfing (2019-04-08)
  • New: "The Next Realm" by Bruce Jenkins. Tow Surfing Begins!
    Blog (2019-04-06)
  • New: Ma and Pa Bendall
    Encyclopedia of Surfing (2019-04-05)
  • New: Misfire! Why Didn't Tow Surfing Happen 30 Years Earlier?
    Blog (2019-04-05)
  • Watch: Baddy Treloar, 1969
    Video (2019-03-29)
  • Watch: Dru Harrison
    Video (2019-03-29)
  • Watch: Baddy Treloar, 1969
    Video (2019-03-27)
  • Watch: Mavericks 1994
    Video (2019-03-27)
  • New: Mark Foo's Last Ride
    History of Surfing (2019-03-26)
  • New: A Monster in Half Moon Bay
    History of Surfing (2019-03-25)
  • Watch: Rory Russell
    Video (2019-03-24)
  • Watch: Liftoff: Aerial Surfing in the '80s
    Video (2019-03-21)
  • New: I Believe I Can Fly: Aerial Surfing in the '80s
    History of Surfing (2019-03-19)
  • New: Derek Hynd
    Video (2019-03-18)
  • New: "In Trim: Gary Propper," by Paul Holmes
    Blog (2019-03-16)
  • New: "Manual of Surfboard Technique," by Tom Blake
    Blog (2019-03-14)
  • New: Tom Blake's Hollow Creation
    Blog (2019-03-13)
  • New: DIY '35: Build a Plank Surfboard
    Blog (2019-03-11)
  • New: DIY '39: Build a Hollow Surfboard
    Blog (2019-03-09)
  • Watch: Mark Sainsbury
    Video (2019-03-09)
  • Watch: Linda Merrill
    Video (2019-03-07)
  • New: Linda Merrill
    Above the Roar (2019-03-07)
  • Watch: Johnny-Boy Gomes
    Video (2019-03-06)
  • New: Rebel For Hire
    History of Surfing (2019-03-05)
  • Watch: The Hollow Surfboard
    Video (2019-03-04)
  • Watch: The Plank Surfboard
    Video (2019-03-04)
  • Watch: Kelly Slater on The Today Show (1994)
    Video (2019-03-03)
  • Watch: Tom Curren on MTV (1995)
    Video (2019-03-03)
  • New: Gard Chapin: an Oral History
    Blog (2019-02-27)
  • New: Gard Chapin: The Living End
    Blog (2019-02-27)
  • New: Kelly Slater is Just Warming Up
    History of Surfing (2019-02-26)
  • Watch: Pauline Menczer
    Video (2019-02-23)
  • New: Killer Cute
    History of Surfing (2019-02-21)
  • Watch: Phyllis O'Donell
    Video (2019-02-18)
  • New: Lisa Andersen
    Above the Roar (2019-02-16)
  • New: "Lisa Andersen Surfs Better Than You"
    History of Surfing (2019-02-15)
  • Watch: "Waterborn," by Bill Delaney (1987)
    Video (2019-02-13)
  • Watch: Bill Delaney interview, 1995
    Video (2019-02-13)
  • New: Randy Rarick Remembers Jimmy Blears
    Blog (2019-02-10)
  • New: "Motel Hell: Surfers Sack Travelodge!"
    Blog (2019-02-08)
  • New: Drew Kampion on the '72 Titles
    Blog (2019-02-08)
  • Watch: Jimmy Blears
    Video (2019-02-06)
  • Updated: 1972 World Surfing Championships
    Video (2019-02-05)
  • Updated: Mike Doyle
    Blog (2019-02-01)
  • New: Mike Doyle
    Above the Roar (2019-01-31)
  • Watch: Mike Doyle
    Video (2019-01-29)
  • New: "Is Surfing Hip?"
    History of Surfing (2019-01-28)

Sunday Joint

SUNDAY JOINT, 2-28-2021: BRAZIL ’78, TOM WOLFE, AND A SWIFT APOLOGY TO JOE QUIGG 2/28/21

Hey All, First, a bit of housecleaning. Thanks to Spencer Croul and Kevin Kinnear for reminding me that Joe Quigg shaped the game-changing Darrylin Board, not Tommy Zahn, as I reported last week. Zahn himself was a fine shaper, and Darrylin was his steady, which makes me wonder why he jobbed the project out to […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 2-21-2021: ACHTUNG, TOMMY ZAHN! 2/21/21

Hey All, Sam George once said that Robert Redford became Hollywood’s hottest new star in the mid-’60s because he looked like Tommy Zahn. Zahn, of course, was the bushy-blond postwar Malibu surfer who, along with Joe Quigg and Matt Kivlin, reinvented performance surfing—the Free Ride generation of the Truman era, if you will; with dizzyingly […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 2-14-2021: DUKE CAPTURES THE FLAG; PLUS TULIE CLARK AND ILIMA KALAMA 2/14/21

Hey All, Five years ago, Steve Hawk wrote an amazing story on Duke Kahanamoku, titled “Duke’s Ulcers.” Here is my favorite part: [Greg Noll] was sitting beside Duke at some event that had been arranged in the aging Hawaiian’s honor. The organizers had promised Kahanamoku that he wouldn’t have to make a speech—a prospect that always […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 2-7-2021: SURF MOVIE HOAXES WE HAVE LOVED 2/07/21

Hey All, Last’s week’s riff on Bob Purvey and his big beautiful Ugly stick, with all those sweet candy-colored “Follow Me” visuals, sent me back to this 2014 post in which I blew your minds with the never-before-told origin story of Nazaré as a surfing break. “Next stop, Nazaré!” the voice-over says, and there we are in Portugal, […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 10: SLIDING IN DM – EAST COAST PRIDE EDITION 2/02/21

Legendary East Coast photographer Dick Meseroll gets his Encyclopedia of Surfing page, and the Breuer bros reflect on East Coast Pride, suggest that the East Coast Rules, and talk through a surf battle royale of East vs West. The Sunday Joint Podcast is an Encyclopedia of Surfing-adjacent show, produced by Surf Splendor. Stream or download […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 09: KEVIN BRENNAN AND SURFING’S CHILD PHENOM SYNDROME 2/02/21

Matt Warshaw joins the Breuer brothers to discuss the up and down, highs and lows of child phenoms of surfing—those who burned bright and either flamed out, moved on, or became Kelly Slater. The Sunday Joint Podcast is an Encyclopedia of Surfing-adjacent show, produced by Surf Splendor. Stream or download on your favorite pod platforms, […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 08: PAM BURRIDGE IS SURFING’S MOTHER SUPERIOR 2/02/21

The Breuer Brothers reverently pay their respects to 1990 Women’s ASP World Champion and all-around superior human being Pam Burridge, then finish things off with a rousing game of Stump My Bro. The Sunday Joint Podcast is an Encyclopedia of Surfing-adjacent show, produced by Surf  Splendor. Stream or download on your favorite pod platforms, including […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 07: CUTBACKS AND COMEDY – THE MIKE PURPUS SHOW 2/02/21

Jamie and Tyler are joined by Matt to talk about the life and times of blond mustachioed surf-hunk Mike Purpus. We see past the puka shell necklace, floppy-brimmed leather hat, and nudie Playgirl spread to examine how Purpus rode his way to the top in California and helped create a template for non-traditional pro surfers. […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 06: TERRY FITZGERALD, SULTAN OF SPEED 2/02/21

Say hello to the hip-thrusting, body-torquing Sultan of Speed, Mr. Terry Fitzgerald. This episode of the Sunday Joint Podcast covers Fitz from head to toe; from Morning of the Earth to those incredible Hot Buttered boards of his to his mile-long rides at Jeffreys Bay. The Sunday Joint Podcast is an Encyclopedia of Surfing-adjacent show, […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 05: FORGOTTEN MASTERS – LARRY BLAIR, MIKE ARMSTRONG, MORE 2/02/21

Gerry Lopez cast such a long shadow at Pipeline in the 1970s that it was often hard to see anybody else. On this episode of the Sunday Joint, the Breuer Bros talk about Pipe’s Forgotten Masters, including Mike Armstrong and Larry Blair. Big tubes, heavy wipeouts, and a rousing game of Stump my Bro—all coming […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 04: SURFER MAGAZINE HAS LEFT THE BUILDING 2/02/21

“In this crowded world the surfer can still seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with his thoughts.” John Severson, from the debut issue of SURFER Magazine, 1960. On this episode of the Sunday Joint Podcast, we talk about the recent demise, after 60 up and down and frequently glorious […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 03: JACK LONDON AND THE HE-MANIFICATION OF SURFING 2/02/21

Jack London was the biggest swinging dick writer in America in the early 1900’s, thanks to Call of the Wild and White Fang and other adventure books. He was a he-man who loved to box and get his hands dirty. In 1906, London designed and built a boat he called the Snark, which he promptly […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 02: LUST FOR LIFE—THE MICHAEL TOMSON STORY 2/02/21

“If You Don’t Surf, Don’t Start. If You Do Surf, Never Stop.” A bold 1988 magazine ad by Gotcha surfwear helped define surfing’s aggro attitude during the Reagan years. Gotcha was the creation of Pipeline-charging, Free Ride-starring, cocaine-loving innovator Michael Tomson. The Breuer brothers unpack the radical life and times of this surfing original. All […]

THE SUNDAY JOINT PODCAST 01: THE 13 BIGGEST MOMENTS IN SURF OF THE 21st CENTURY 2/02/21

On the premiere episode of the Sunday Joint Podcast with Tyler and Jamie Breuer, the boys dismantle, rearrange, and neatly place back on the shelf the 13 Biggest Moments in Surf of the 21st century. Then it’s on to the surf-themed St. Christopher medallion, which causes Tyler to question his fashion choices as a grommet, […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 1-31-2021: MICK DOOLEY, BOB “THE UGLY” PURVEY, ORIGINAL GRUMPY SURFER SAM REID 1/31/21

Hey All, I am impressed and baffled by people like Mick Dooley, Aussie “functional school” virtuoso and ’64 Bells Beach winner, who don’t begin surfing until young adulthood. As a kid, Dooley was a boarding school detainee and high-achieving tennis player (nearly 80 today, Mick will smile and self-efface, then destroy you in doubles), and claims […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 1-24-2021: JOCK SUTHERLAND, AND A SHORT RANT ON LEGENDS 1/24/21

Hey All, Astride my high horse and wearing my finest gold-threaded sash of pedantry, I suggest perforce that the word “legend” is not only much overused among our people, but used incorrectly, or at least lazily, as well. I have been called a “legend” for example. Repeatedly, on Instagram. “Legend” followed by praise hands, just […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 1-17-2021: ALOHA, BEN AIPA 1/17/21

Hey All, Ben Aipa, boardmaker and power surfer for the ages, died last week from a long list of ailments including diabetes, heart issues, and dementia. He was 78. Derek Rielly and I emailed back and forth about Ben yesterday, and the first thing I wrote was: “Ben didn’t start surfing until he was 21 […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 1-10-2021: BOBBY BROWN; MASSIVE BURN-FEST AT ’64 WORLD TITLES 1/10/21

Hey All, The Kevin Brennan Joint two weeks ago connects us almost magnetically to Cronulla’s Bobby Brown, as they are the Lennon and McCartney of Aussie surfing tragedy. That gorgeous 1967 aquamarine Brennan-Brown-Tallows sequence in Hot Generation is a high point for both surfers—as well as the beginning of the end. Brennan found drugs and never recovered. Brown […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 1-3-2021: BECKY BENSON, NANCY NELSON, AND OTHER GIRLS WHO CAN’T (HA!) SURF 1/03/21

Hey All, I’m very much looking forward to the new women’s pro surfing doc Girls Can’t Surf, which drops in March and, judging by this excellent trailer, will not pull any punches. (“They were all such dumb-ass chauvinistic pigs,” Wendy Botha says, after a couple of pork-scented quotes from Gary Elkerton and Damien Hardman.) That said, I’m […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 12-27-2020: AUSSIE TEEN-TERROR AND SURFING SAVANT KEVIN BRENNAN 12/27/20

Hey All, Kevin Brennan is the jagged diamond that at some point drops into every historian’s lotion-soft hands as he or she tills the fields of mid-1960s surfing. But unless you’re a pension-age Bondi local familiar with the Hep Pit and can tell Bluey Mayes from Red Ted, you likely know just three things about […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 12-20-2020: HO SHOW, KELLY SLATER, RIGHT SAID FRED 12/20/20

Hey All, This flaccid right deltoid of mine won’t be feeling the sweet vaccine poke until April or May, so I’m looking for anything to lighten the mood—and this new clip of Mason Ho and Kelly Slater dancing all over Velzyland was my joyful early-Christmas present. Where to start? V-land itself, of course, is a […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 12-13-2020: A SURFING WEEK LIKE NO OTHER 12/14/20

Hey All, Surfing went full Bill Cartwright last week. Mavericks on Tuesday was whatever you want to call it, I’ll accept anything from 25- to 75-feet, and fissioning onto that motherless bone orchard of a reef like Bikini Atoll on loop—and that was the least dramatic event of the week. That same day, Josh Moniz kept pace […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 12-6-2020: PAM BURRIDGE IS SURFING’S MOTHER SUPERIOR 12/06/20

Hey All, “Surfing’s Mount Rushmore” blipped on social media two weeks ago, with all the usual suspects nominated and debated. I swung in late with a vote for Gidget, but made a big show over complaining about the lack of criteria. “Surfing’s Mount Rushmore” is too vague. Duke Kahanamoku is a given, but the other three […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 11-29-2020: THE ETERNAL SUNSHINE OF DONALD TAKAYAMA 11/29/20

Hey All, Greetings from our isolated Thanksgiving condo-weekend in tiny Glacier, Washington (pop. 211), hiking distance to Canada and 10 or so crow-flying miles to Mt. Baker. Hardcore Pacific Northwest ski country. I’ve been thinking back to when rich Uncle Irv flew me and my brother to Mammoth for the first time. I was 11, Chris was 9, and […]

SUNDAY JOINT, 11-22-2020: 18,000 THANK-YOUS, GIVE OR TAKE 11/22/20

Hey All, Looking at the week ahead, I am grateful for Tom Carroll’s continued smiling and ever-viral presence in the world of surf, and happy to note that this year his birthday (59) falls on Thanksgiving. Which means nothing to Tom, of course, because Aussies don’t celebrate Thanksgiving and because on Thursday he and brother […]