Tag: x

WATCH: JEFF HAKMAN IS MAGIC MIKE ON A WAVE

“Surf Chimp” was the insider’s nickname for Jeff Hakman, and the man was so easygoing he probably laughed right along. But “Surf Muscle” is the tag that stuck. Of course it did. Run your cursor over 00:37 and 1:18, above, then stack-rank Hakman, Michel Bourez, and Channing Tatum, for shredded male hotness. (Spoiler alert: Tatum wins,...

WATCH: BARRY KANAIAUPUNI, “SPEED, POWER, FLOW, VOODOO”

This video was three very enjoyable days in the making, and clocks in at just under 4:00, which is double the length, give or take, of most EOS clips. It was hard to stop at 4:00, in fact. Barry Kanaiaupuni intrigues and fascinates me more today than ever. Two things to geek out about here,...

THE GREAT SECRET BEHIND 1974’s “SANTOSHA” STATE OF MIND

A few thoughts on  “Forgotten Island of Santosha,” SURFER Magazine’s cover story for April 1974.  *  *  *  “Probably the most perfect wave in the world,” the article said, and because it was printed in SURFER, and because I was 13 and surf-mad, this was a statement of fact, pure and simple. The rest of the...

GLEN WINTON PROFILE BY SAM GEORGE. PLUS NEW MR. X VID!

“Mister X,” a Glen Winton profile written by Sam George, originally ran in the January 1987 issue of Surfing magazine. This version below has been shortened and edited.  *  *  * The first time I saw “Mr. X” was at the Bells Beach contest in Victoria, Australia. I was standing in the chilly parking lot...

FISH OUT OF WATER: WHEN TOM CURREN SURFED ALLENTOWN

Matt George took this 1985 shot of Tom Curren at Dorney Park’s Wildwater Kingdom wavepool, just prior to what was billed as the Inland World Surfing Championships. Surfer’s Journal ran the photo in 1993, with a great caption by Matt, which I’ll reprint here in full.  *  *  * This was Tommy’s first wave at...

WATCH: ONE MORE GREAT THING ABOUT GEORGE DOWNING

George Downing didn’t keep every surfboard he ever owned, but he kept a lot of them. His very first, a horrifying crayon-shaped solid redwood plank, purchased for $4.80—George held onto that one. Same with “Pepe,” the hot curl Downing took with him when he sailed from Honolulu to California in 1947. Same with “Rocket,” a...

GEORGE DOWNING TIMELINE: A LIFE IN SURFING

George Downing was a private person. He wasn’t shy and enjoyed people’s company, but he never opened his life up to journalists or reporters. In 2000 and 2001, while researching the book version of Encyclopedia of Surfing, I found almost no biographic information on Downing, and just a cursory interview or two. I’d talked to...

WATCH: BADDY’S GOOD LIFE IN “MORNING OF THE EARTH”

David “Baddy” Treloar is the bearded giant in Morning of the Earth, Alby Falzon’s shimmering 1972 jewel of a surf movie. Or rather, Baddy’s the other bearded giant—the one who isn’t Nat Young. You’ll be glad to hear Baddy is very much still alive and surfing Angourie, on New South Wales’ North Coast, which is a pleasant...

WATCH JACKIE BAXTER GO FULL BAMM-BAMM

By the time I arrived in Venice Beach, in 1966, Jackie “Bamm-Bamm” Baxter had just departed south to Huntington. From the photos and film I’ve seen, he looks like one of those friendly older roughnecks I grew up around, some of them surfers, but mostly dudes riding heavily customized bikes loud and low on Pacific...

SPACED OUT: 50 YEARS LATER, TOM MOREY STILL HAS ME THINKING

Last year I re-read “Space Boards,” Tom Morey’s 1971 SURFER article. The first words of Morey’s six-page Age of Aquarius backyard board-design dialectic go like this: “Hello. I am a spaceman. I am the spirits of Einstein, Thomas Edison, Alexander Graham Bell, and Bob Simmons, taken possession, temporarily, of the innocent body known here on earth...

BACK FROM THE DEAD: SKATEBOARDING IN THE MID-’70s

For a couple of years there, starting around 1973, nobody knew what direction the newly-revived sport of skateboarding was going to go. Or nobody cared, is the better way to put it. We were just ridiculously stoked on urethane wheels, and making it up as we went. That comes through clear as a bell in the...

SURF LEASH ’72: ALL TIED UP

“To Leash or Not to Leash, That is the Question,” by Corky Carroll, ran in the December 1972 issue of Surfing. The first commercially-sold leashes were introduced about 18 months earlier, and while the device was fast gaining acceptance, in ’72 it remained a red-hot topic.   *  *  * There is a lot of controversy...

HOLD-UP: THE RYAN DOTSON STORY, BY RICHARD DOWDY

“Shaping a Life: The True Saga of a Surfing Bank Robber,” by Richard Dowdy, originally ran in the December 2014 issue of Ocean Magazine. It was excerpted from a Ryan Dotson biography that was never published. The version below has been further edited and shortened. Dowdy and Dotson worked together at Hansen Surfboards in the...

WATCH: TIGER ESPERE’S MASTER CLASS ON HAWAIIAN STYLE

Tiger Espere of Hawaii is a hard surfer to appreciate in 2018, nearly five decades after his peak, when he stood proudly shoulder-to-shoulder with the best of the North Shore Thunder Gods. Tiger’s trip was subtle. Subtle . . . maybe to the point of obscure. A sensitive young WCT fan wandering onto this post will...

TOUCHED WITH FIRE: A KEITH PAULL PROFILE BY CHRIS BYSTROM

Keith Paull of Queensland, as graceful as he was handsome, won the 1968 Australian National Titles, rode “Swell of the Century” Makaha in 1969, and in general was regarded throughout the surf world as the “good Aussie”—as opposed to those louder, more demanding fellows like Nat Young and John Witzig. Everybody liked Keith. By the...

GREAT SURFERS AGAINST SURF CONTESTS: A GARDEN OF CONTRADICTION

Delving a little deeper into our collective up-down-sideways relationship with surf contests. Here, collected, are some of the finest, most piquant anti-contest quotes from the past 80-something years. But keep in mind: not only was every person here a competitor, most of them went on to compete AFTER denouncing competition. Never trust a surfer.  *  *  * “On...

BURN YOUR COMPETITION CARD! THE ANTI-CONTEST MOVEMENT TAKES OFF

Surfing competition had always had its detractors—Miki Dora and Phil Edwards being the best examples—but not until the late ’60s did anti-contest sentiment expand into something that could be called a movement. Yes, the whole thing was splattered in hypocrisy. A lot of surfers tried to have it both ways; fly the anti-contest banner on...

GREG MUNGALL GOES FULL POLAR BEAR TO WIN ’79 KATIN!

At first, the Katin Pro-Am in Huntington Beach was the best international-level pro contest in California because it was the only international-level pro contest in California. When the Op Pro touched down in ’82, all lit up like the Close Encounters spaceship—the Katin was still best, if for no other reason than it was held...

MIDGET AND THE REVOLUTION: A CLOSER LOOK

Did I overlook Midget Farrelly in the shortboard revolution timeline that posted last week? A few EOS readers (mostly but not exclusively Australian) reached out last night and this morning to suggest this might be the case. I’ve so far replied that Midget and his advanced board are noted in the ’67 Bells pic, and that...

WATCH: THE REVOLUTION GOES SIDEWAYS

The shortboard revolution gave us “total involvement” and “creative self-expression” and radicalness and huge turns and the tube and etc and it was great, exciting, sport-changing stuff. The shortboard revolution also produced an Everest-sized mountain of chaff and dross. Windmilling arms. Stuttering footwork. And wiggling. So much wiggling. Enough to make a short video!...

WATCH: THE ILLUSTRATED REVOLUTION

The objective here is to put some visuals to the first and most important year of the shortboard revolution. What you see below is not a complete record of what happened in board design in 1967. Not even close. The imagery, however, is limited ONLY to that year. The thing about the 2010 shortboard revolution...

SHORTBOARDS: “IT TOOK THE AUSSIES TO DO IT.” DICK BREWER, YOUR THOUGHTS?

Dick Brewer was a boardmaker without equal. He was Gandalf and Oppenheimer and more Gandalf with a touch of Pollock. Brewer’s understanding of how a surfboard’s manifold design elements must blend and synchronize and accommodate—template, rails, rocker, edges, flats, curves—was fourth-dimensional. Magic boards danced from his shaping bay in the 1960s and ’70s like Fantasia broomsticks into the...