“SMELLS LIKE VICTORY” – EXCERPT FROM THE APOCALYPSE NOW SCRIPT

Zero Break (2004) was the book I did right after Encyclopedia of Surfing. I was so bored with my own clenched reference book writing voice after three years of EOS, that I gathered up all my favorite surf writing, old and new,  fiction and nonfiction, famous and obscure, threw in a couple of cartoons for flavor,…