THOUGHTS ON TOM CURREN, AND THAT ONE TIME I ACTUALLY GOT A GOOD INTERVIEW WITH HIM

I am deeply invested in Tom Curren’s greatness as a surfer. So deeply invested that I’ve sometimes wondered, over the past 30-plus years, if his awkward turns on the public stage are perhaps of long-running performance art piece designed to shame the rest of us at the way surfing has been chopped, mixed, adulterated, and…