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7/23/14

“Riding waves is an art, not a sport.” God help us. You could lift a fleet of zeppelins with all the hot air generated by surfers waxing poetic about “the art.” Open any surf magazine from 1970, and the surfing-as-art fatuousness wafts off the pages in small clouds.  Then again, David Nuuhiwa.  We all enjoy a little postprandial cigar-and-brandy…

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