LET US NOW READ FROM THE BOOK OF BLAKE

Just posted a page for Hawaiian Surfboard, Tom Blake’s 1935 book. Like Blake himself, Hawaiian Surfboard is a strange work, part history, part how-to manual, with a sprinkling of Blakeian observations about the state of surfing halfway through the Great Depression. A few excerpts are presented here.  *  *  *  THE ORIGIN OF BIG WAVES Big surf seems to…