CHARMIAN LONDON, EXCERPT FROM “OUR HAWAII,” 1917: “THE SURFING EXPERT, ERECT WITH FEET IN CHURNING FOAM, MAKES STRAIGHT FOR THE BEACH”

Charmian Kittredge, an educated, wealthy, free-love-believing Socialist from the San Francisco Bay area, was born in 1871. At age 34, she married Jack London, five years her junior and at the peak of his fame. In 1907, the couple sailed from San Francisco to Honolulu aboard the Snark, a 45-foot yacht London designed himself. “Riding…