BEAUCOUP KAHANAMOKU: STEP ASIDE DUKE, AND LET’S MEET BROTHERS DAVID, BILL, SAM, LOUIS, AND SARGE

Reformed (more or less) North Carolina moonshiner Junior Johnson is the perfect launching-pad figure for the thing he represents, which is stock-car racing. Babe Ruth, Jim Thorpe, Clara Bow, Chuck Berry—all of them, same thing, very hand-in-glove to their respective fields. But no activity of any kind has an origin-story legend so immaculately tailored to its source as Duke Kahanamoku is to surfing. We could build a detailed flow-chart outlining why this is true, and to some degree I've tried...