books and surfing

Film, video, magazines, television, and the internet have proven to be the most popular media outlets for surfing, but the sport has also been consistently well served by books. Surfing was first brought to the attention of the English-speaking world in Volume II of A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, the serialized and wildly popular accounts of Captain James Cook's exploratory voyages across the Pacific Ocean, from Tasmania to the Arctic. Upon seeing a native canoe surfer riding waves in Tahiti,...