Noll, Greg

Boorish but charismatic big-wave rider originally from Manhattan Beach, California; one of the original Waimea Bay chargers; founder of Greg Noll Surfboards. Noll was born Greg Lawhead (1937) in San Diego, California, moved to Manhattan Beach at age six with his just-divorced mother, and changed his name when she married chemical engineer Ash Noll. He began surfing at age 10, and by the early '50s was one of the Los Angeles area's best hotdoggers.

Noll visited Hawaii for the first time in 19...