war and surfing
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Pat Rogan, Nha Trang Beach, South Vietnam
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Santa Monica, 1943. Photo: Don James
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China Beach Surf Club, Vietnam, 1968. Photo: Dennis Norton
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Iraq war vet, Pismo Beah
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Robert Duvall as Col. Kilgore in "Apocalpse Now"
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Palestinian surfers in Gaza
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See Also
History of Surfing
Above the Roar
Surfing was most directly affected by war during World War II. Six months after the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941, nearly all fighting-age surfers in America, Australia, and the territory of Hawaii had enlisted in the armed forces, "leaving the waves," as surf journalist John Grissim later wrote, "to a smattering of beachcombers, draft dodgers, kids, gentle vagabonds, and civilian locals who worked in defense-related jobs." Surfboard development came to a near standstill, and the 1928-found...