Surfers made two forays into mainstream politics during the mid-'80s. First, voluntarily, on behalf of the environment, and then as a reluctant bit player in South Africa’s apartheid struggle. “Sports and politics don’t mix” continued to be the surfers’ default position. But the mixing had already taken place. Athletes had in fact proven themselves to be, at times, politically influential: from Jackie Robinson’s dignified crossing of major league baseball’s color line, to Bill Russell marchin...
Chapter 7:
Long Division
- Return of the Longboard /
- Simon Anderson and his Mighty Thruster /
- Surf and Destroy /
- Terror from Below /
- The Unsinkable Tom Carroll /
- An Explosion of Talent /
- Tom Curren's Mile of Style /
- How to Turn a Circus into a Riot /
- I Predict Waves in Your Future /
- Cult of the Surf Photographer /
- Video Killed the Surf Movie /
- Waves for Sale /
- Surf Boom Redux /
- Terminally Hip /
- Super-Sizing the World Tour /
- Somebody Should Do Something /
- Surfers vs Apartheid /
- Make Room at the Top, Obrigado! /
- The Last Big Wave /
- Eddie Aikau's State of Grace /
- A Beloved Rival /
Somebody Should Do Something
Surfing fed and nourished an apolitical mindset. The sport was famously and proudly unorganized. “Surfing’s always been totally self-indulgent," as former world champion Nat Young put it. "We're selfish."