Excerpted from Craig Stecyk’s “Tales of the Hawk,” which ran in the Fall 1994 issue of Surfer’s Journal. Velzy was 67.
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Simmons made ’em light, I made ’em turn.”
I was born September 23, 1927, in Hermosa Beach, and started surfing when I was just a little squirt. When I’d see a board wash in on the beach. I’d run down and stand on it until the older surfer would come up and kick me off. As I got a little stronger and older. I’d jump on ’em and try to push i...