Jack O'Neill

What’s better than going surfing? What better possible way to occupy your time?

Drew Kampion wrote “At Sea with Jack O’Neill,” a profile for the September 1972 issue of SURFER. The quotes here were used in that article. O’Neill was 49 years old.

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The business [O’Neill Wetsuits] just takes too much time. There’s too much paperwork and talking to bankers. If I had it to do over again, I think I might stay with commercial fishing.

I lived in Long Beach, body surfed at Rainbow Pier, did the required years of high school. I went to college,...