Australian surfers want to be as original as they can possibly be in this unoriginal period in surfing.
“Midget Farrelly: Man Goes to the Ocean,” by Drew Kampion, ran in the March 1969 issue of SURFER. Farrelly was 25, and had just finished runner-up to Fred Hemmings in the 1968 world championships.
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Why do you surf?
Originally it was because I could not resist surfing. I would have had to be completely insensitive to avoid the magnetism of the thing. I surf today for the same reason. I think, basically, we all respond to the magnetism. If anything, for me, it’s become stronger over...