Richie Collins

Orange County, 1988

In my room there’s not one picture of surfing on the walls. I just want to go lay my head down and think of anything besides surfing.

Excerpt from “Not Shy,” by Matt Warshaw, published in the January 1989 issue of SURFER. Slightly edited from the original

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When I have a shaved head it feels like I can think better. When I’ve got the hair it feels kind of like a helmet keeping everything inside my head sort of trapped.

He’s the world champion but he didn’t surf big waves last year, so I figure he’s missing a third of it. He’s a two-thirds’ world champion. If I won the title but I surfed lik...