Sunset Beach, Hawaii, 1969
Things will just keep progressing. Radical surfing is here to stay.
“Ryan Dotson: Surfer/Shaper” ran in the April 1969 issue of Petersen’s Surfing, when Dotson was 23. The author is uncredited.
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Brief us on your Island history.
I first came to the North Shore a few years ago, surfed just like everyone else, then went back to the Mainland and made plans to come back to stay. The next winter I stayed a little longer, but again went back to California because I still regarded it as home. On my third trip over, I decided to stay. That’s when I moved to M...