Tiger Espere

North Shore, 1970

We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

“At Last: Tiger Espere” was published, uncredited, in the April 1970 issue of Petersen’s Surfing magazine. Espere was 24.

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Tiger, the North Shore is a dangerous place for pro and amateur surfers alike. There are signs posted everywhere, warning about rip tides and large waves. Last season, just in one day, there were nine helicopter rescues, and a number of people throughout the year are swept out to sea, never to make it back. You’ve been a North Shore surfer all your life, how do you...