Tiger Espere

North Shore, 1970
We’re free here, getting it on, grooving in the nature that is all around us.

This uncredited interview, titled “At Last: Tiger Espere,” ran in the April 1970 issue of Petersen’s Surfing magazine. Espere was 24 at the time.

*  *  *

Tiger, the North Shore is a dangerous place for pro and amateur surfers alike. There are signs posted warning about rip tides and large waves. Last season, just in one day, there were nine helicopter rescues, and a number of people throughout the year are swept out to sea, never to make it back. You’ve been a North Shore surfer all your life...