“THE AGONY AND THE EXCESS,” BIG WEDNESDAY REVIEW by SURFING MAGAZINE (1980)

Marc Rubel’s Big Wednesday review ran in Surfing magazine’s February 1980 issue, which was itself a review of the 1970s. This version has been slightly edited.  *   *   * For the 1970s, the dream went something like this: A major Hollywood motion picture about surfing would take the country by storm, putting the nation’s youth…