Fred Hemmings, Joyce Hoffman, Joey Gerard, Mike Doyle, Margie Stevens
Waikiki Surf Club
“Champion of the Heavies,” Time Magazine, January 8, 1965
Australian surfers get their kicks on the combers at Sydney’s Neilson Park, zipping through shark nets so ragged that they no longer stop sharks, only surfers. At Huntington Beach, California, the gasser is “pier shooting”—hurtling between the concrete pilings of a pier. But these pastimes are only makeshift substitutes for riding the “heavies” off Makaha, a lonely beach on the west coast of Oahu that is every surfer’s idea of paradis...