Chapter: 2
Gliding Return
- A Fine Little Revival
- Jack London Loves Purple
- California: The New Frontier
- Beachboy Life
- Duke Kahanamoku
- Surf Shooting Down Under
- The Bronzed Islander Shows How
- Surfing in the Jazz Age
- Tom Blake Redesigns the Sport
- What Depression?
- When Clubbies Ruled Australia
- Surfboard as Woodcraft
- Palos Verdes Surfing Club
- San Onofre: the Nearest Faraway Place
- Riding the Hot Curl
- Enter Makaha
- Death at Waimea
- The Overwhelming North Shore
Enter Makaha
Makaha, 1940s
Wally Froiseth
Waikiki, 1940s
George Downing, Makaha
The Empty Lot Boys arrived at Makaha pumped to the gills with immortal teenage swagger. They understood that new big surf techniques were theirs to invent, and they were soon riding waves bigger than anything they'd ever seen in Waikiki.
Browns was the most challenging plus-size wave on the south side of the island. Kelly and his friends hadn’t mastered the break completely on their new narrow-tailed boards, but they could now at least stroke into an eight-footer and know they had a fighting chance of making it to the channel in one piece. More importantly, they all knew that Browns was by no means Oahu’s last word in big surf. W...
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