Sunn, Rell

Soulful regularfoot surfer from Makaha, Oahu; a top-ranked pro in the 1970s and '80s, but better remembered as the embodiment of Hawaiian grace and warmth, and for her defiant but ultimately futile struggle with breast cancer.

Sunn was born (1950) in Makaha, the daughter of a beachboy, and raised along with four siblings in a Quonset hut. She began surfing at age four; at 16 she won the Hawaiian Junior Championship and was invited to the 1966 World Championships, in San Diego. Two years late...